Look on top of the maxifuse relay center on both cars. That'* the little one to maintain power to the car during the swap.

http://www.batterychargers.com/

The big one also has an 80-amp starting circuit, battery and alternator diagnostics, and a buncha other stuff. Maintenance mode is automatic after charge is complete (trickle). Enough options and features that you don't dare lose the manual.


Big:
http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-8000a.html

• 80 Amp Engine Start – for emergency starting.

• 12<>30 Amp Fast Charge - self-adjusting, variable charge rates for everyday charging needs and maintaining your battery in peak condition. Charges and automatically desulfates and restores car, truck, RV, farm equipment, AGM, gel cell and deep-cycle batteries.

• 2 Amp Slow Charge – for charging and maintaining small batteries; charges motorcycle, ATV, snowmobile and lawn tractor batteries.

• 125 Amp, Sure-Grip Clamps – for top and side-mounted battery posts.

• Electronic Touch-Pad Controls – easy-to-select switches for Digital Display, Battery Type or Charge/Start. Choose from 12V regular automotive, 12V deep-cycle, 12V AGM or gel cell and 6V regular batteries.

• Built-in Digital Voltmeter/Tester – helps diagnose problems.

• Retractable Handle – for easy portability. Cord wrap on back.


Little:
http://store.schumachermart.com/mc-1.html

• 1 amp trickle charge rate – charges in 2 to 12 hours.

• Reverse-hookup protection.

•Quick-Disconnect Harness – Snap either connector into place in seconds – Use the 50 amp clamps or permanently attach the ring connectors…great for hard-to-reach motorcycle batteries.


Not much point to a rear battery other than hauling extra weight around. Just more to replace later. Get an Optima and be done with it. I'm not real keen on large-gauge primary feed wires running back and forth in my cars.

Ever think about rebuild kits instead? I think I will be ordering 2 sets off of ebay for both my 105 Amp alternators (one I am going to do in that wrinkle finish to match what I have going on in the engine bay right now)

Every time I get ready to yank the Zilla'* motor, the SLE does something like this. It'll be running today on a NAPA reman with a good warranty.

Update...

No Alternators in stock locally at all. I'll have one tomorrow afternoon.

Interesting side note that I didn't mention last night is that when I called around on pricing for the Optima, one of the Autozone guys tried to sell me a Yellow Top. I was quite stern with him and told him I specified a Red Top part number and to please get me the price.

When I arrived at the store, a senior employee was lecturing him on the EXACT same thing I told him. Yellow Tops are NOT for this type of application. The manager arrived back from dinner and joined in as well. Seems they're seing a bunch of import tuners with fried alternators due to putting in a yellow top thinking it'll buy them some headroom on their audio, not realizing the weak spot is the alternator, and that batteries don't actually 'produce' any power. I introduced myself as the instigator and joined the discussion.

I asked the manager how long it was going to be until they stopped honoring alternator warranties when a yellow top is installed. He suggested immediately while he explained to his other employee that Yellow Tops were not to be suggested simply because he has one in his own car and it 'works great'.

Yellow Top batteries should be used as a SECOND battery behind a current-limiting isolator in conjunction with a beefier alternator. I've preached this here for 3 or 4 years, and it seems the 'market' is now starting to realize it.

On that note, I wish Duralast golds wouldn't have such a similar yellow color. I am sure it lets people think that Optima yellow top batteries are just a step above but are no different in how they operate.

I don't think that alternator warranties should be taken away with a yellow top Optima installation. People need to know about the yellow tops in general, and I don't see those batteries coming with much of a warning. Plus, improperly installed trunk batteries can do probably just the same amount of damage, and they can be hidden.

When my alternator and battery died, I just didn't tell anyone about my rear battery, and no one asked if there was anything strange going on. I'm not to blame in that case, but anyone without a proper rear battery install would be. Generally, there are lots of ways to damage an alternator, of course including over tightening a belt tensioner, and to start weeding out those who knowingly install deep cycle batteries without much else is a very small step.

So, how much did you pay for your Optima 5 years ago as opposed to how much it costs today?

Normal price was about the same, but 5 years ago, it was on sale for 125. I paid 160 not on sale this time.


Money well spent in my book, considering what I just tested that old one at.

Make fire.









Just in time.

Today was pure H E double L driving around in the Zilla on summer tires. They don't do well in snow and on ice.

More snow tonight, and again all day tomorrow, so the SLE is ready to roll and make the best of those new all-season Kumho'*.

I take it that'* the gold fin OE alternator from NAPA? When did you have time to disassemble it and put on the magic coating?

I didn't disassemble it. And yes, that'* their 3-year warranty reman. I asked if my coating would invalidate the warranty. They said not as long as it'll beadblast off.