View Poll Results: Should I use it or sell it on ebay?
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Slick-50
#42
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Religion in car care
Originally Posted by jr's3800
we took apart Brads( Sandrocks ) Bad 3800, Spun a bearing.... At 175k the motor Looks great on the inside... Eeven the cylinder bores look great... And we have no idea how bad the car was abused before he got it... I doub't the car ever had anything other than Dino.. The Bearings the did not spin, looked good and so did the journals...
The only reason I even ended up with slick 50, is to get the RainX wipes, Fuel system formula( Yes I do like the Slick 50 Fuel system formula )... I bought those in a bundle when they were on sale for $12... We used the Quakerstate oil for everything from Honing cylinders, to soaking Lifters...
The only reason I even ended up with slick 50, is to get the RainX wipes, Fuel system formula( Yes I do like the Slick 50 Fuel system formula )... I bought those in a bundle when they were on sale for $12... We used the Quakerstate oil for everything from Honing cylinders, to soaking Lifters...
Maybe they changed the oil every 3K miles with Mobil 1 (or other synthetic) and used Slick 50. Maybe they worked at a Jiffy Lube and got free changes and stuff. Maybe they let it go for 10K miles without an oil change. Maybe the first scenario, then the last?
There are too many assumptions and off-hand comments without any scientific or pseudo-scientific testing. Comments without any firsthand knowledge whatsoever are less than worthless. They take something away from other'* perceptions without any merit whatsoever. Why would someone do that?
If someone here said that they used it religiously from when they bought their car (or put in a brand new engine) and had excessive cylinder wear or premature bearing failures, or some other failure, then I could see the comments above meaning something. As it is, I don't hear anything remotely like that. So it continues to be a "maybe" or a "probably", but is presented here as facts..
I guess that'* what bothers me. Too many assumptions without real trials, actual evidence, or even first hand knowledge..
#44
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Re: Religion in car care
Originally Posted by chipinnc
I guess that'* what bothers me. Too many assumptions without real trials, actual evidence, or even first hand knowledge..
#45
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Next, a 1991 Olds Cutless Supreme, 3.1 V6. We bought it used with 38K miles on it in Pittsburgh (1993). I immediately put in Slick 50 with the first oil change and regularly afterwards (Like once a year or so). In the summer of 1997, my (now Ex) wife took it to the store in Raleigh, and somehow sprung a leak in the lower radiator hose. On the way home from Raleigh, the engine temp light comes on. She thought "it needed more air flow", so she took the back roads, flying at 70+mph the 15 or so miles to get home.
It made it home, barely. Stopped in the driveway and had a horrible smell, sputtering, etc. Boy was I upset. After cooling down, the engine would turn over (spin) fine, but would not start. We talked to people and everyone said that the engine was dead and to expect $1500-2500 to replace it or re-build it. A friend came over and said, well let'* take the heads off and have a look-see. We did, and he asked when we got the new engine. We didn't, it had over 130K on it. He said that I was mistaken and it couldn't be that old. It must have been rebuilt or replaced. I said no, and told him we'd had it since 38K miles, etc. He showed me these really fine hash marks on the cylinder walls. Said that it was the original honing marks from when it was made and that they never looked that good when an engine had over 50K miles on it, let alone 130K. He also knows how me and the wife drove. Smile Long story short, the heads were warped, and after getting them planed at the local Car-Quest Machine Shop, and replacing ALL the rubber on the upper part of the engine, it ran better and faster than before. Had to replace a cam position sensor, water temp sensor, and some other random stuff. But it still ran great! he was amazed.
It made it home, barely. Stopped in the driveway and had a horrible smell, sputtering, etc. Boy was I upset. After cooling down, the engine would turn over (spin) fine, but would not start. We talked to people and everyone said that the engine was dead and to expect $1500-2500 to replace it or re-build it. A friend came over and said, well let'* take the heads off and have a look-see. We did, and he asked when we got the new engine. We didn't, it had over 130K on it. He said that I was mistaken and it couldn't be that old. It must have been rebuilt or replaced. I said no, and told him we'd had it since 38K miles, etc. He showed me these really fine hash marks on the cylinder walls. Said that it was the original honing marks from when it was made and that they never looked that good when an engine had over 50K miles on it, let alone 130K. He also knows how me and the wife drove. Smile Long story short, the heads were warped, and after getting them planed at the local Car-Quest Machine Shop, and replacing ALL the rubber on the upper part of the engine, it ran better and faster than before. Had to replace a cam position sensor, water temp sensor, and some other random stuff. But it still ran great! he was amazed.
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#46
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Next, a 1991 Olds Cutless Supreme, 3.1 V6. We bought it used with 38K miles on it in Pittsburgh (1993). I immediately put in Slick 50 with the first oil change and regularly afterwards (Like once a year or so). In the summer of 1997, my (now Ex) wife took it to the store in Raleigh, and somehow sprung a leak in the lower radiator hose. On the way home from Raleigh, the engine temp light comes on. She thought "it needed more air flow", so she took the back roads, flying at 70+mph the 15 or so miles to get home.
It made it home, barely. Stopped in the driveway and had a horrible smell, sputtering, etc. Boy was I upset. After cooling down, the engine would turn over (spin) fine, but would not start. We talked to people and everyone said that the engine was dead and to expect $1500-2500 to replace it or re-build it. A friend came over and said, well let'* take the heads off and have a look-see. We did, and he asked when we got the new engine. We didn't, it had over 130K on it. He said that I was mistaken and it couldn't be that old. It must have been rebuilt or replaced. I said no, and told him we'd had it since 38K miles, etc. He showed me these really fine hash marks on the cylinder walls. Said that it was the original honing marks from when it was made and that they never looked that good when an engine had over 50K miles on it, let alone 130K. He also knows how me and the wife drove. Smile Long story short, the heads were warped, and after getting them planed at the local Car-Quest Machine Shop, and replacing ALL the rubber on the upper part of the engine, it ran better and faster than before. Had to replace a cam position sensor, water temp sensor, and some other random stuff. But it still ran great! he was amazed.
It made it home, barely. Stopped in the driveway and had a horrible smell, sputtering, etc. Boy was I upset. After cooling down, the engine would turn over (spin) fine, but would not start. We talked to people and everyone said that the engine was dead and to expect $1500-2500 to replace it or re-build it. A friend came over and said, well let'* take the heads off and have a look-see. We did, and he asked when we got the new engine. We didn't, it had over 130K on it. He said that I was mistaken and it couldn't be that old. It must have been rebuilt or replaced. I said no, and told him we'd had it since 38K miles, etc. He showed me these really fine hash marks on the cylinder walls. Said that it was the original honing marks from when it was made and that they never looked that good when an engine had over 50K miles on it, let alone 130K. He also knows how me and the wife drove. Smile Long story short, the heads were warped, and after getting them planed at the local Car-Quest Machine Shop, and replacing ALL the rubber on the upper part of the engine, it ran better and faster than before. Had to replace a cam position sensor, water temp sensor, and some other random stuff. But it still ran great! he was amazed.
#47
PopaDopaDo
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Chip
IMO these testimonials are not testimonials. Without being engineers and disecting these engines who is to say that what some of us(including myself) have experienced would not have been experienced anyways? I am rather trusting that the FTC would not have gone after or won if Slick50 actually had any supporting evidence. It think Slick50 was in the same boat as were are in this thread, they only had user testimonials of what they thought saved their engines but no real lab/ engineering proof and they had Duponts more scientific claims that the product could in no way act as advertised.
IMO these testimonials are not testimonials. Without being engineers and disecting these engines who is to say that what some of us(including myself) have experienced would not have been experienced anyways? I am rather trusting that the FTC would not have gone after or won if Slick50 actually had any supporting evidence. It think Slick50 was in the same boat as were are in this thread, they only had user testimonials of what they thought saved their engines but no real lab/ engineering proof and they had Duponts more scientific claims that the product could in no way act as advertised.
#48
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Originally Posted by popatim
I am rather trusting that the FTC would not have gone after or won if Slick50 actually had any supporting evidence.
#49
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Originally Posted by chipinnc
So if this is / was a used vehicle before Brad got it, how can you "know" what they did to it? You just used a gross generalization about it "probably" only having dino juice in it.
<SNIP>
I guess that'* what bothers me. Too many assumptions without real trials, actual evidence, or even first hand knowledge..
<SNIP>
I guess that'* what bothers me. Too many assumptions without real trials, actual evidence, or even first hand knowledge..
How do you KNOW that it was specifically Slick50 that made your Skylark'* engine spin faster?
How do you KNOW that it was specifically Slick50 that prevented your Cutlass from further damage, or that it was specifically Slick50 that made its engine show honing marks on the cylinders?
How do you KNOW that it was specifically Slick50 additive that made your Voyager'* transmission not blow up at 120-130K? My transmission hasn't blown up yet, what product do you suggest I credit?
Talk about too many assumptions! Without any real trials! Without any actual evidence! Without any firsthand knowledge!
All of your stories are of the form "I added Slick50 and I think it helped." !!!
Originally Posted by chipinnc
You send them your personal information, when you bought the stuff, what kind of car you have, mileage, etc. Then if any oil related problem happens to affect your engine, you can submit your receipts and (maybe) get it covered by the makers of Slick 50.
Originally Posted by chipinnc
The bottom line is that it WORKS for some people.
Originally Posted by chipinnc
If it was so bad, why would it still be on the market and how can they still make these claims?
Originally Posted by chipinnc
Wait, I'm sure there are hundreds of websites that say there is no God, so you don't believe in God either because some
web sites say that there is no God?
web sites say that there is no God?
Ta!
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