so a 3800 engine modded with the following

ARP headstuds
Cometic triple layer headgasket.
XP hot camshaft.
New timing chain and tensioner
Machined lower intake manifold.
stiffer #105 valvesprings and retainers.
Full Stage 2 ZZP Intercooler.
42.5lb injectors.
ZZP custom fuel rails.
Ported and polished front header and powerlog.
Custom 3 inch exhaust, spintek muffler, dual resonators.
MSD Ignition wires
3.0 inch and 2.8 inch pulleys for supercharger.


how good would the tranny hold on a 3"? what about 2.8"?

im assuming not that good, so what would i need? shift kit? or alot more?

thanks
samz

Sam.. before answering that question.

Why headstuds, headgaskets and a LIM that will likely give you more issues? You didn't list aluminum or ported heads. Really don't need them for an XP cam either.

I'd also have to suggest you stay as far from ZZP modded or log rails as possible. The modded rails are common leakers and the logs bolt to the valve cover bolts and screw with VC gaskets and the logs both. PRJ fuel rails or the Summit Aeromotive'* are the best ways to go for problem free install/future.

There'* no such thing as a ported and polished powerlog for the front. There'* stainless and mild steel. Can't ever suggest buying a ported rear manifold..it'* got the same flow as a stock rear.

My suggestions would be:
XP hot/S1X camshaft
New timing chain and tensioner
Polish/smooth runners on your LIM (or buy a spare) if desired..
Crowe Cam (Not Comp Cam) #105 valvesprings
Modded or LS retainers
ZZP valveseals
Full Stage 2 ZZP Intercooler, Meziere 20gpm pump.
42.5lb injectors
PRJ or Aeromotive fuel rails.
Front powerlog.
3" Downpipe
Stock or PRJ Ignition wires
Gen V supercharger
3.4 pulley
A good tune for each season.

Also instead of a powerlog and downpipe you could go straight to headers. I've had that suggested to me before. It costs a bit more though.

As for your question about the transmission.

Shift kit is a good idea, but a very minor addition
hardened input shaft
hardened 4th gear shaft
higher stall torque converter
gear change, your choice
inspect the transfer chain, replace if high miles.
New EPC solenoid, a must

These are all things you can do in your own shop if your well set up. No special tools other then a inch pound torque wrench are needed. Figure a solid grand to do this, perhaps a bit less if you can find deals.

To build on Dan'* post further. If you open the trans to do input shaft etc. Don't get the 4340, they are known for taking less abuse than a stock shaft. That unforutunately bumps the pricetag upwards. The 300M and Intense Turbine shafts are the suggested upgrades.

On the chains, replace with the HV-093 chains. They were used in the 5.3L Grand Prix GXP 4T65'* and are much stronger than stock. There'* no need to replace the input shaft w/o doing the chains. They'd be the next weak link. And gear ratio changes can be done using the 093 chains w/o needing to upgrade to a single 7/8" chain which can be costly.

Dan, Bill & Brian
thanks guys i really appreciate your help


reason im asking is im re considering this purchase
https://www.gmforum.com/general-gm-chat-88/interested-new-car-need-opinions-287162/

so i was wondering what pulley size i can safely run without breaking anything
the currrent owner is running a 3.0 without the intercooler FMHE mounted, so just cammed and all the rest with a great tune, he said the car flies like a bat outta hell but he also mention that with the 3.0 on once you hit WOT you better take it easy on the pedal, because the tranny prolly wont hold, again no IC
so with IC up and running i was wondering how low i can go without breaking anything stick with the 3.0? or maybe go up to 3.1 or 3.2 on the STOCK tranny
and i was wondering what would be the next thing to do if i were to drop down to high 2s

with the stuff you guys have listed, i guess that might keep it together, but honestly i dont know anything about trannys so i dunno if id be able to install them myself... as for taking it to a shop, it might cost me more than the car itself lol

Ok.. see we needed to know that it'* in a fiero. That'* about 1,000lbs (US) lighter than a Bonnie. Being lighter means the trans doesn't take such harsh abuse.

What you can do without breaking stuff is tough to say. We see stock guys break stuff and modded guys that do and don't break.

If you didn't beat it from a stop, the trans is going to last longer. The torque from an SC is what helps break the trans. Add that into a large heavy car and it'* a tug of war contest between the weight and power. Remove one part of the equation by putting this in a fiero...different ballpark. The trans should have less pressure on it as the car weighs less.

Trans is stock right?

Hooking up the IC is going to make things worse because it allows you to put more power through the motor. Cooler, denser air from the IC becomes more torque from the motor to the wheels.

so i guess tranny work is gonna be a must then? especially if the IC is connected

how hard is it to drop down the tranny and work on it? i do alot of work on cars but i never touched trannys, but this could be a start

another question, with the setup above, am i safe (engine wise) to run a 2.9? if so what kinda HP am i looking at? just est.

Trannys are a PITA to work with (i.e. moving around) but in my expierence not hard to take apart. Never had to put one back together though.

A transmission weighs 160lbs. Dunno what is in kilo'*. Overall though, they aren't bad for two people.

In the fiero, I think you need the car on a lift to unbolt the subframe and leave the engine/trans on jackstands while the car is lifted off it.