Today I checked my top post connections & guess what... they were loose!
Out Comes the trunk Wrenches!

These lead marine terminals work, but as you can see the + is close to maxing out in the tightening department.
Are there any other similar top post terminals I can use for a better, secure connection, that will adapt to the current ring terminals I have on the PA?

You converted from side mount battery?

The Car came like this originally...


No Corrosion problems with the AGM battery and a more solid Top Post solution was utilized.
Now I would like to find higher quality top post connectors, that stay tight.

these connectors for adding amps with big wires work well and make good positive connections. just have to cut off the ends in your application. after you put the wire in and tighten them down i would squeeze some dielectric grease on both sides and up to were the insulation starts.


something like this

probably have to get one with three big ports for the positive, but you get my point. sonic electronics is good and has a good selection of different ones.

Xscorpion DBT024RP Platinum Digital Display Battery Terminal

I think I would rather remain with the factory ring terminal ends.
I've had a bad experiences with inserting the bare wire into terminals.
Remember the 200 amp fuse that melted with a plastic casing....Yeiks!
Metal casings only please.

Stay away from the lead clamps. They are soft and just loosen up over time. Go with steel or copper clamps.
Then treat them with Permatex battery protector.
We use that stuff at work on big trucks that have 2, 3 and 4 battery systems.

Thanks Mike..
I really have not found any steel or copper listed under Wing Nut Marine Battery Terminals.
How about brass?
Here are some that I can get easily locally..Maybe if I phone one of the dealers they will know if anything is in steel or copper up here.
Pico No 894N | Brass Marine Battery Terminal | Pico of Canada Ltd.

Surprising thing about lead is, its a pretty dense metal, but its very soft. Brass doesn't have the carrying capacity of lead or copper, but is more rigid to a point until it gets so cold, it breaks. Brass also corrodes like copper.

Either way you look at it, its a lose-lose situation.

the plastic is just an insulating cover on any connector, if there is heat its because of a poor high resistance connection, which is what happens to ring terminals after a while. any connection really. lugs like the two i pictured is the only reliable way to terminate high current connections for the home diy'er. unless you have a hydraulic crimper to put new connectors on it, it will be better than whats on there for longer with the dielectric grease. best bet would to be to avoid dissimilar metals, copper wire needs copper terminals. they have no-ox but most people dont have that laying around either