Likely overtorched ball joints
Spent the weekend installing lower and upper ball joints on a 1999 Bravada. Getting the rivets out is a challenge. Only finished the left side, will do the right side in a few weeks. Also replaced the pads and rotors while I had them off. Will replace the wheel bearing and half axle when I do the right side- parts are reasonably cheap and they are high failure items- so while I have the knuckle off I might as well spend an extra $200 in parts (axle and wheel hub/ bearing) and have it match what I replaced on the left side three weeks ago. We like the Bravada because it is full frame- yet has a small footprint. They are known for maintenance issues so hopefully we can maintain it before it fails and keep it a long time. Last Bravada went 230k and we gave it to a high school kid, this Bravada bought used (10 years old 60k miles one owner) now has 77k miles on it. The lower left ball joint failed- so I am replacing them all.
My torque wrench broke- so I had to tighten without it. (upper ball joint, lower ball joint and tie rod). I am sure I overtightened rather than overtightened- and can tell this as the cotter pin hole we towards the bottom of the castle nut.
Question- had bad is it that I overtightened the ball joints?
2001 Bonneville SSEi, 219,000 miles.
Whats in my driveway:
1998 Chevy S10 4x4 ZR2, 1999 Olds Bravada, 2001 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi, 2007 Ford F-350 regular cab 2WD, 2008 BMW 335i coupe (Wife'* replacement for her Bonneville). The Bonneville is my favorite of all the cars in the driveway.