Hoping no one will make fun of me....
#11
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:? Where did you see that? I'm looking at my service manual (impala, but same engine) and it tells me exactly how to remove it. It'* not that bad at all, you just have to make sure it seals properly. I always consider the dealer as a last resort, but that'* mainly because I'm broke
#12
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Didn't you say you swapped the FPR from another rail? That'* how it is "serviced". Search any online auto parts dealer and you'll see a picture of what you need to buy. It'll be just like the part you swapped. The dealer will get in your shorts for about $150.00 to do it. It'll take him about 15 minutes to do it.........Assuming it is the FPR.
#13
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OK so the dealer called and says that the MAF senson is "broken" and that is whats causing my problems. But they also said that a new MAF sensor is 350 bucks plus labor to put it in and that seems a bit rough to me. They said that they could try to glue it back together but could offer no guarantee that it will work. With the new part, the offer 12mnth 12k miles on the part. Does that seem a bit extreme for a sensor..i was thinking 100 to 150 bucks sounded more correct....
#15
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the lower black plastic is broken. i could just glue it back together with some superglue and give that a shot. I personally inspected to resistance coils and they are fine. The dealer said they could glue it back together for me but they would not guearentee the job. But heck, I can order a brand new one from online for around 150 bucks. I think i might do that..order one and then glue the old one. If the glue works i send the new sensor back and if it doesnt work then I can use the new sensor.
#16
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Here is a pic...When i took the MAF out of the throttle body, it did not bother me that it was in two pieces...as I had never seen one before I didnt know it was supposed to be one piece...
I am thinking that the lower plastic part may spin during use and block the flow to the sensor...would this cause the fuel system to overcompensate and pump a bunch of fuel to the rail causing it to leak out of th FPR?? That would solve all my problems if this was possible...
I am thinking that the lower plastic part may spin during use and block the flow to the sensor...would this cause the fuel system to overcompensate and pump a bunch of fuel to the rail causing it to leak out of th FPR?? That would solve all my problems if this was possible...
#17
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UPDATE INFO
Well here is what was making my car run like garbage
Also the O-ring on the FPR was split. I replaced that with a rebuild too..
Engine runs great now..purring like a kitten..
MAKES ME WANNA SING
(to the tune of "Bringin Sexy Back)
I got my Bonnie Back
Those fake a$$ playas dont know how to act
The seats feel good because I hurt my back
I got my Bonnie Back.
AHEM..sorry..but I digress..So now there is something else leaking on my driveway..sigh..here is a picture of the fix for that problem...
Also the O-ring on the FPR was split. I replaced that with a rebuild too..
Engine runs great now..purring like a kitten..
MAKES ME WANNA SING
(to the tune of "Bringin Sexy Back)
I got my Bonnie Back
Those fake a$$ playas dont know how to act
The seats feel good because I hurt my back
I got my Bonnie Back.
AHEM..sorry..but I digress..So now there is something else leaking on my driveway..sigh..here is a picture of the fix for that problem...
#20
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i went ahead and swallow hard and bought a new one. It was about 160 bucks...which about half of what the dealer wanted just for the part. Plus they were going to charge me for an hours labor.
I just drove the bonne on the highway at 80MPH for about an hour. Everything is solid and NO leaks anywhere. Noticing alot more sensor sway than before though..not sure what to make of that. when the motor comes down to idle the sensors do a little dancing..but when the motor is up to about 3k they are rock solid.
The new radiator should be the last fix for a while i hope...
Now its time to start spending some time and money on cosmetic repair..
I just drove the bonne on the highway at 80MPH for about an hour. Everything is solid and NO leaks anywhere. Noticing alot more sensor sway than before though..not sure what to make of that. when the motor comes down to idle the sensors do a little dancing..but when the motor is up to about 3k they are rock solid.
The new radiator should be the last fix for a while i hope...
Now its time to start spending some time and money on cosmetic repair..