I don't know if that'* the way it'* supposed to be or not, but part of the center electrode looks like it'* now on the ground electrode.

That looks like an over-lean condition and/or knock/pre-ignition and/or overly advanced timing to me...

But after 90k miles, maybe that'* just normal wear?

I'm hoping so agrazela.

Anyway, I just now got done pulling ALL the plugs out and re-gapping them. They were all way beyond .060" . That was fun, I had my face flat up against the right strut tower and my feet up on the garage wall, laying across the whole engine compartment. I was worried about my gut smashing the plastic UIM, but it held up okay.

#4 is the absolute hardest. I tugged and tugged and tugged trying to get that boot off. Finally when I was about ready to give up, it gave way.

I consider this a dry run. I didn't want to attempt this the first time with brand new plugs. Next time will be way easier because I got all the boots greased up.

Now all I have to do is put the centre bracket back on and hook up some wire connectors. Right now I'm going to take a break for a little while because all the blood is pooling in my head. I got me a bottle of Motrin and some Propel fitness water - berry flavoured.

Looks lean to me. I don't see much in the way of pre-ignition. There looks to be a bit of side gap there. Interesting.

Look at this brand new NGK, it doesn't have the nipple on the ground electrode; I wondering what'* up with that.

The nipple on the ground is too round to be deposits. Slight variation in design, No biggie.


Hmm, that picture has some side gap too. Why have I not seen this before.

Okay I just now finished and the car fired right up. Six hours to change spark plugs is not too bad is it?

The thing is, I get to do it all over again when I put new ones in.

Damemorder, what do you mean by side gap?

Mac.. the electrode on your AC is merely different design as Dame mentioned.

The plug looks ok for the mileage, plug fouling/visual will appear differently depending on your driving. Google "plug fouling" and you will find many sites with pictures and good descriptions of all the various conditions. Overall..your plugs look good.

Personally, at 90K, I would have changed them out and not "dry run" it. Sounds like you had a heck of a time changing them. Overall..I'd call 6 hours a little long for a plug change considering the roominess under our hoods. However if this is your first time ever... the next time will be 100 times faster and you will notice you reduce the time with each successive time you repeat the procedure.

Some tips/trcks for the next time:
Don't lay on the UIM, it'* not held down by much torque to begin with, you don't want to distrub that gasket and cause a leak/issue.
Remove the strut tower bar, makes access much easier.
Try reaching plugs from both sides of the car.

There'* no strut tower brace Bill, it'* a Buick.

There'* no access from the right side because of the power stearing pump and belt tensioner assembly. I applied Archon and Rogue'* method of removing the centre bracket to access #2 and #4. And # 6 was accessible from the left side.

I should mention I removed the alternator brace too.

Ok, Not having a Buick...thanks for the info. (Pics would be worth millions) I would suggest staying off the manifold.

I remember Rogue saying the engine pull bracket woujd make it easier...and actually through conversations, I believe he changes his plugs only from the right side. However the end result is use what works best for you.