HIDs
10-14-2010, 11:43 PM
#15
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I have 5000k low beams and fogs. I'll take pics when I get home. I like them because they are the same color as pure sunlight.
Also, stock HID is 4300k.
Also, stock HID is 4300k.
10-16-2010, 02:32 AM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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I recall one of the hid websites saying that either the canceler or slim ballast would eliminate any flicker, but can't remember which one nor the site. Should this be an issue?
10-16-2010, 09:17 AM
#18
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
I have 6k in the LeSabre. In my sig pic. Behind it, in my Cruiser, are Silverstar Ultras. You can see the color temp difference. In the current avatar, you can see the blue from the side. 6k is as blue as I would want. No trouble from police with them in the year I've had em. (yet)
And yeah, they look 200% better now that I just got a better pair of headlights in from Morad. Mine were pretty scratched up before when these pics were taken, so the beams got scattered a lot.
I have DDMs, been in for a year. No extra relay needed. Wiring can handle the load without a problem. Not even a hiccup in that year.
Didn't need any kind of canceller, either. Its mainly for some systems that detect load on the headlight circuit, and have problems with the onboard ECM throwing a code, or disabling the circuit.
10-15min warm up time? You mean seconds, right? If yours take 15 minutes to warm up, you have some pretty crappy HIDs. Mine didn't even take 2 minutes when it was -10 out in the middle of last winter.
I still have to figure out the trigger part. I actually want to get a relay, and keep both high and low beams on when I turn highs on. I rarely use the highs (silverstar ultras), but yeah, the HIDs go black when you shut them off. Thing is, they don't completely "reset". They just need to warm up (or ramp up) again. If you use your highs for 20 seconds then switched back, the HIDs will still be fine.
DDM is a popular kit, has a great warranty, and a lot of the Regal GS and Pontiac GP guys are using them with great success. May not be OEM, but they are well made.
One thing not mentioned, is that some cars are backwards polarity. Mine was one of them. Halogens don't care what side is + and -. But HID ballasts do. All I had to do was reverse the wiring. It looks backwards now (the plug on the ballast), but the car runs reverse polarity, so it had to be wired in this way.
But I do plan on a harness, only to be able to make it easier to keep them on when highs are on. One less thing I have to wire myself. But, in one years time, I have no wiring issues with my kit without a harness. DDM doesn't even recommend it unless you go with the 55w kit. the 35w kit doesn't draw that much on start up, and even less than halogens once warmed up.
And 35w is plenty. 55w is overkill and will probably get you pulled over. I'd rather not take my chances, so I stuck with the 35w. Besides, if you want any blue in your kit, going 55w washes out the color. ie, you would need an 8k kit in 55w to get the amount of blue I have in my 6k at 35watts.
But if you do decide to go 55w, yes, get the relay. The 35w really isn't that big of a draw on the factory wiring.
And the "not needing fog lights since you have HID part?" Whomever wrote that has little understanding of what fog lamps are supposed to do. Just because you have a brighter headlight, almost makes it worse in fog conditions. (Trust me, I drive through it every morning). Especially if you run a retrofit, into housings equipped with halogens stock, there will be beam scatter. Some less than others. But the whole idea of being able to see under the fog, no. no. no. You want a lower color temp, and beams that sit lower to the ground to help you see through fog. Brighter beams through factory headlamp housings will make it WORSE!
And yeah, they look 200% better now that I just got a better pair of headlights in from Morad. Mine were pretty scratched up before when these pics were taken, so the beams got scattered a lot.
I have DDMs, been in for a year. No extra relay needed. Wiring can handle the load without a problem. Not even a hiccup in that year.
Didn't need any kind of canceller, either. Its mainly for some systems that detect load on the headlight circuit, and have problems with the onboard ECM throwing a code, or disabling the circuit.
10-15min warm up time? You mean seconds, right? If yours take 15 minutes to warm up, you have some pretty crappy HIDs. Mine didn't even take 2 minutes when it was -10 out in the middle of last winter.
I still have to figure out the trigger part. I actually want to get a relay, and keep both high and low beams on when I turn highs on. I rarely use the highs (silverstar ultras), but yeah, the HIDs go black when you shut them off. Thing is, they don't completely "reset". They just need to warm up (or ramp up) again. If you use your highs for 20 seconds then switched back, the HIDs will still be fine.
DDM is a popular kit, has a great warranty, and a lot of the Regal GS and Pontiac GP guys are using them with great success. May not be OEM, but they are well made.
One thing not mentioned, is that some cars are backwards polarity. Mine was one of them. Halogens don't care what side is + and -. But HID ballasts do. All I had to do was reverse the wiring. It looks backwards now (the plug on the ballast), but the car runs reverse polarity, so it had to be wired in this way.
But I do plan on a harness, only to be able to make it easier to keep them on when highs are on. One less thing I have to wire myself. But, in one years time, I have no wiring issues with my kit without a harness. DDM doesn't even recommend it unless you go with the 55w kit. the 35w kit doesn't draw that much on start up, and even less than halogens once warmed up.
And 35w is plenty. 55w is overkill and will probably get you pulled over. I'd rather not take my chances, so I stuck with the 35w. Besides, if you want any blue in your kit, going 55w washes out the color. ie, you would need an 8k kit in 55w to get the amount of blue I have in my 6k at 35watts.
But if you do decide to go 55w, yes, get the relay. The 35w really isn't that big of a draw on the factory wiring.
And the "not needing fog lights since you have HID part?" Whomever wrote that has little understanding of what fog lamps are supposed to do. Just because you have a brighter headlight, almost makes it worse in fog conditions. (Trust me, I drive through it every morning). Especially if you run a retrofit, into housings equipped with halogens stock, there will be beam scatter. Some less than others. But the whole idea of being able to see under the fog, no. no. no. You want a lower color temp, and beams that sit lower to the ground to help you see through fog. Brighter beams through factory headlamp housings will make it WORSE!
10-16-2010, 01:11 PM
#19
Artist
True Car Nut
