Run away or pay 4000 max. with TAX. Write down a offer and walk away tell them to phone you if they can help you out. If they want to talk there is nothing to talk about its written down. If they want to sell it they will give it away at 3500, but that might take a little messing around. They probably paid 2500-3000 for it. I would look it up under carfax.

I shoudl also mention the car does have a warrenty on it. It is a 12 month, 15,000 mile warranty. Do those problems sound serious enough not to buy the car? What speed does the tranny usually shift into OD? is it 45? I know my Buick is at 45. Maybe it was just because of the speed I was going. It didn't do it at any other speed or anything..

Dude , I doubt PROGRESSIVE is going to be in biz much longer . I work for NCO financial , a collection agency that collects for progressive and they are going through a MAJOR law suit they are giving prices on quotes for policies that cost 40% less . In other woords they tell you one thing and give you the cheaper one for the same price !

I did a Carfax. There were only two records. (first person buying it, and the dealer I saw it at buying it.)

Hey 88, This is what you should do:

Negotiate as others have suggested. If they agree to come down on the price, but won't fix the problems, take it to an independant mechanic. He will probably charge you a little to look at it, but have him test drive the car and give you his opinion. The dealer may not want to fix everything until it is sold because the warrenty they are offering may be through a third party, which means that if you buy the car, the warrenty company will have to pay for the repairs but the dealer wont.

I bought a thunderbird a few years back. when I drove it, it had a lifter noise and it seemed to heat up a bit too fast. I talked to the dealer before I bought it and told him what I had found. He listened to it and told me he didn't hear/detect anything wrong, but he threw in a warrenty. Two weeks after I bought the car, I took it back to the dealer, said the exact same thing about the lifter and heating prob. They checked it out and it was TWO cracked heads. The warrenty covered the cost of repairs (including a top-end rebuild) and I was only out the $50 deductible. That car ran great for years with no further problems.

You may wish to do the same thing. I would definately ask them to replace the upper intake on that car before you buy, though. It is one of the only weak spots on the 95+ series II NA cars (unless it has a Supercharger). If you get the car, I'd like to check it out sometime. After all, we are practically neighbors!

Good luck in your decision!

Couldn't get the car. Buick decided to die on me today so I have to fix that instead of getting a new car. Oh well, guess I wasn't meant to get that bonneville. Talk about bad luck.

That'* okay, you'll have another day--another Bonneville will come along. BTW, your Buick is an H body, we should still meet some time. BC is only 35 minutes from Kzoo. Maybe meet in Augusta or Galesburg some time. Let me know.

It sounds like your paying an awful lot for your insurance. If you have a member of your family that'* in or been in the military check out USAA they are very competitive. I have a 18 year old son who now lives in the Dallas-Fort Worth area and his insurance runs just over $300 every six months.

that'* what I've been saying all along too. Full Coverage for my 1988 LeSabre CUSTOM 4 door with 145,000 miles was close to $700 every six months. Remember that I have a TOTALLY clean record too, and even discounts. (good student discount and alarm, etc.) I'd end up paying more for the insurance on any car than for the car itself. It is pathetic!

Just pay for the first month till you get the cards and then cancel the coverage and if you get pulled over you show the cop the cards which expires in 6 months . If you crash don't call me up!