I recently aquired a low mileage (70K) 95 Regal Custom in great condition. I just put all new tires on it and had all the struts replaced with Monroe Sensatraks. The only problem is it'* handles like a big bowl of mush. Can anything be done to upgrade the suspension?

Thanks,
Rick

ABSOLUTELY! I have a 95 Regal that will pull a skidpad harder than a C5 Corvette! What'* your budget?

Looks great!

As far as budget I can spend what'* neccessary but I don't want to get too crazy. I don't want to replace the new struts I'd just like to stiffen things up a bit. What do you suggest?

Thanks,
Rick

Front and rear strut tower bars. You can get the front strut tower bar off of a cutlass convertible in a junkyard, or you can make your own. I made my own. HUGE difference in handling.



I bought a large steel pipe from a materials company, measured it a little longer than needed, clamped it down on a vice on one end to drill down, then tightened it and bent it by hand a little so it would clear the plenum, and repeated for the other end. Then I drilled holes for the mounts, and that was it. Makes a very big difference in how rigid the front end feels.

The next is side strut tower bars. These bolt from the strut towers to the front radiator support. They come on older and newer cars and are interchangeable. All you'd have to do is trill and tap the holes that already exist for these if you don't already have them.



The next thing you'll need is polyurethane front sway bar bushings. I believe you should use 1-1/4" on the front. You may not have a sway bar on the rear. Ask me more about these if you need help.

The next thing you'll need is a rear strut tower bar. This will have to be custom made. Here'* how I did mine. Do not underestimate how much of a difference these bars make.




The next thing you'll need that will make a huge difference is an ADDCO rear sway bar. This will set you back around $180 and you'll need to remove the knuckle or the strut to replace it, which will require an alignment afterward. However, its the only way to stiffen the rear suspension while cornering and it makes a very big difference. Here'* what it looks like:



Another thing you can do is polyurethane control arm bushings. I have a writeup on another site I can copy here. Cost would be about $100 and end result would be reduced understeer under hard cornering, better tire wear characteristics, and much more responsive steering under normal driving. During this time, you will need to be able to have your car out of service for a couple of days. Well worth it though.

Here'* the writeup:
https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.p...24#post1510324

Past that, you're going to be lowering your car to get better results, but this a good place to start. Start with the strut tower bars and front control arm bushings, and go from there.

WOW! Thanks for all the great suggestions. This was more info than I had hoped for. The strut towers bars will be first. I would love to do the control arm bushings immediatly but will be a few months before I tackle that one as I use the car as a daily driver until the weather in MI gets better then I pull the motorcycle out.

What kind of a job is the rear sway bar?

Thanks,
Rick

Rear sway bar requires removal of one of the rear struts, take your pick. If you make good marks on the strut, you can bolt it back up without needing an alignment. Installation isn't too difficult and comes with instructions.

I guess I need to take a peek and see if there currently is one on the car. I found a 7/8" from Addco. Is this big enough to make a difference?

Thanks,
Rick