I got some pictures for you folks out there. This is the short ram intake form. Next week I will have a heat shield on the car that is ceramic coated and should seal shut with the hood to isolate the filter from the engine compartment and make it a true CAI. Bear with me this intake has been on my car for well over 6 months and it'* a little dirty. I have never had a problem with any Check Engine lights or anything.

I will track dyno test it soon so I have some numbers in the improvement in makes in our cars between the stock intake and this one.

Some other notes is that when your car turns on for the first time everyday, this intake is loud. I mean it'* louder than my exhaust while the car is warming up.

In the pictures you will also see I extended my intake air temperature sensor closer to the filter so that the computer would read colder air meaning more power. Plus the aluminum never gets hot enough that you can't touch it even if I have been driving for hours on end.

Some of the specs of my intake are:

3" Mandrel bent Aircraft Aluminum
Weapon R V2 Hyper Filter w/ Velocity Stack
Red Silicon Reducer (can withstand 700 degrees F)
IAT closer to the filter





The final production version will most likely be steel that is powdercoated with a few color choices, like black, red, blue, green. It depends on the feedback you guys give me. The more people who are willing to buy, the cheaper it is.

Also another two options will be available most likely, either a short ram intake as you see in the pictures and the short ram with a heat shield that will also be powdercoated to match with the intake.
Other options which depending on user feedback will be to have the IAT close to the filter in which you have to extend or buy the extension from the Grand Prix Store for this sensor. Or I will have the hole clost enough to just use the stock wiring length.
This intake is the best mod I have done on my car so far and at WOT it sounds wicked. And on really cold nights you feel the power. Some other notes is that I choose 3" pipe instead of 4" is that it'* slightly cheaper and also it develops velocity in the air which leads to more torque.

So please leave you feedback and let me know what you guys want. And depending on people'* interest, we could set up a group buy which would make it cheaper for everyone. During the meantime and once I get some feedback, I can give prices and the official options if you are interested in an intake. If you have any further questions, email them to krusher190@lycos.com.

_________________
1999 Black Bonneville SE

Mods:
3" Custom Catback Exhaust
Custom 3" Intake
MAF Screen Removed
Thrasher Shift Kit (highest setting)




<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 99BonnevilleSE on 2002-04-12 01:19 ]</font>

Looks great!

Do you know if it will fit Series 1 engines?

count me in! i have 1 made out of pvc.. this would be a ton better. i'd want an aluminum pipe with a red heat shield, if possible... let me know if not then everything red. that is awesome. just let me know when they will be ready.

So when can i get my hands on one? all red.... let em know
Pritchjw@muohio.edu

So when can i get my hands on one? all red.... let em know
Pritchjw@muohio.edu :?:

Summer is here and gone so you can take me off the list b/c i am at school now and it does me no good... if there ever was a list.

Jon

I know this is a contention for all parties involved (Waiting for products to happen). Often a supplier will offer a "group Purchase" and in the case of Bonneville’* the market is not there (big) so even group purchases have a hard time even reaching 25 people let alone the customary 50. Now that said I know that Angry duck is your only choice for a Good quality Bonneville air intake and actually they are doing us more of a favor considering the numbers and R&D cost. I don’t think Angry duck even required a group purchase but I have found that through experience that most Bonneville owners are not willing to spend the money required to purchase a one off product so we have to wait for Angry duck to be prepared. No matter what happens Angry duck and my company Domestic Performance are the only companies willing to put our necks out for our cars. I am not complaining but I think it important to know that the niche known as Pontiac Bonneville performance is very very small and mostly pay check to pay check poor. Believe me I know that feeling. Actually I have spent all my Car project money on R&D and creating a website. LOL my plan has been to sell products for other Vehicles as well, so I can use the profits to gain back my investment and build more options for our cars. Both angry Duck and Domestic performance can produce almost anything you could desire for your car, but the $ or market has to be there. Don’t worry if you plan to keep your car for more than another year you will see serious growth of options.

Just my take on the situation not sure exactly how Angry duck feels officially.

TY

Well said and there is nothing more I need to add. If people understood how much money I have just put into the R&D for this intake project they would be more patient. But I have been working on it all summer trying to get an airbox to make a difference but currently there is really no way to make a true CAI for the car because you need to get it out of the engine compartment and that is no possible to do it safely. The only way to do a CAI is with a custom hood with scoop. I am deciding wether or not to offere the box, most likely not to since it doesn't make a difference and I am calculating the final cost and options so please be a little more patient. The Angry Duck Tofu Racing website will be up shortly and you can check there for updates.

-Hector

I'm in for one with a heat shield, and all YELLOW! and I'll wait as long as it takes!! thanks for all ur hard work and effort!

I have something of a homemade, a friend of mine calls it gheto engineered, open element filter intake. I used to have some pictures of it but don't think I do anymore. I will look around and try to find some.

It was essentialy free to make as well and sounds great. Really seems to let the car rev much easier.

I work at a shop that is right next to a huge electrical supply place so evertything i need i just picked up during a slow period at work last year.

Parts list:

1 plastic air intake tube from a 1993-1997(?) Z/28 Camaro. This is the tube that connects the air box to the throtle body. I got mine from my friends 1993 z/28 but any camaro/firebird that was bult before the LS1 was offered should work even if the car came with the V6.

1 cone style air filter for a 1995 ford explorer. Yes I know I despised having the evil ford part in my car but it was free and was made by Fram and not ford which helped me feel better. The Fram number you want is CA7774 and they are about 9 bucks at evil wallyworld.

1 tube of High Temp RTV sealent. I used the clear kind.

Serreated knife or hack saw.

Two lengths of wire one foot long that are of the same guage as the wire used for Air intake temp sensor.

Wire cutters/stripper and some way to reattach the wires. I used wirenuts since I did not have a sodder gun handy.

First step is to modify the air tube from the F-Body. There is a small tube on the side of it that is about the same size as the AIT sensor. Use your hacksaw to cut it flush to the body of the tube. Now take the AIT sensor and the wrench you used to pull it out of the air box and screw the AIT sensor into the flush hole you have created. The threads on the sensor will selftap the plastic and you can easily screw the sensor completly into the airflow for a good reading.

Just remember to do this slowly and steadily to keep from damaging the threads as they form.

Second step is to glue the filter to the air tube. Now I know you are thinking that is crazy but I have had this setup on for more then a year now and have had no problems. It is best to have the filter warm when you do this since it is very tight fit on the end of tapered end of the tube. You also might want to very slightly pull on the filter to stretch the rubber some and/or put a little lube on the tapered part of the tube. I used Amsoil'* synthetic spray grease.


Slowly push the cone filter onto the tapered end of the tube untill it feels snug. Don't push too hard or too fast because you can rip the rubber part of the filter. Once it is on the tube make a note of where the filter stopped moving back onto the tube and remove the filter. Clean that part of the tube well and scuff it up with a bit of sandpaper. This will make sure the RTV sealeant seals well on the smooth plastic.

Now reinstal the filter and put a single bead of RTV sealant where the filter meets the tube. Wait a few minutes till the bead is tacky to the touch then run a second beat right next to it. Hold the filter steady till the sealant has tried enough to keep it from moving then place the assembly so it can cure for 24 hours without being knocked around. Make sure no weight is put on the filter itself to keep from moving around.

Now we are at the next to last step. The wires for the IAT sensor must be extended. Just cut the wires, make sure you don't get to two different ones mixed up, and splice in the extensions however you choose. I have been meaning to get some of the heat crimping things to replace the wirenuts on mine but just have not bothered yet. The wirenuts seem to do fine and are holding up well in the heat.

Once the sealant has cured after about 24 hours, overnight should do, just install the completed tube onto the throtlebody. The fit will be a little tight even with the hoseclamp loosend completly but slow steady pressure will get the tube on without hurting anything.

Once the tube is on you need to clearence it so nothing will hit the hood. On my car i can fit my pinky between the lowest point of the airfilter and the metal floor of the car. Other cars will probably be a little different depending on various things. The way I did it was to take a tiny bit of yellow paint and put it on the top of the AIT sensor plug. This is the highest point of the entire assembly. I took a guess on about what clearance i had on the hood and then slowly closed it completly. I opened the hood and looked to see if I had left any paint on the insulation above the filter. I just repeated this until I had the whole assembly rotated for maximum clearance between the floor of the engine bay and the hood.

Wow that was long.

I will try to get pictures of this sometime soon. I am also working on a true cold air kit using a coated metal heat shield, the air box that matches the explorer spec filter and a lenghth of hose that matches the diameter of the other inlet end of the explorer air box.