and i usually replace both(on a new car)when one goes out just to have it done cause ive found if one is stronger the weaker one(older one) will usually break shortly after thats just my experince

https://www.gmforum.com/mechanical-134/remove-transmission-primarily-96-99-a-289278/

if you read through that Dan shows how to remove an axle(while doing a trans swap) but still shows with pics how to do it

That is not a write up on how to remove the axle you do not have to do everything shown just the parts about removing the axle i figured the pics would help

Sweet!

Those pics are nice.

so, i understand completely how to get the car to the point where the control arm swings free, i've sat on a pry bar for about an hour while we took turns grinding/air hammering away at the O.E. balljoints... everything'* new, it will All come apart real nice....


but,

1.) will I have to pry down on the control arm, while someone else hammers, to get the outer end of the axle, out of the hub?

3.) . . . does it really just pop right out of the trans . . . haha i think we can handle this, i thought we'd need some time of a puller tool to get that inside removed from the 'differential'

FORGET THAT QUESTION, it was a mistake.

Here is a write up on removing the wheel hub, the rest is easy. https://www.gmforum.com/mechanical-134/wheel-hub-replacement-290447/ To get the axel out you will do those steps and then push the axle in to the transmission as far as you can to release the clip. Then use a pry bar to pop it out. Your replacing the axle so you really don't have to worry much about pulling to hard. You will need to drain the trans fluid first.

so if i don't drain the trans, i'm assuming all the fluid will leak out the hole where the axle inserts?

faaaack. i justt had my tranny serviced LAST WEEK arrgghhhhhhhh

Yes it will. Get a big clean container. That way you can reuse the fluid.

First of all... let me say, my 'bystander'* diagnosis' is because my garage is full - and it has been raining here in the northeast since, ohhh, 2 weeks ago.


Second, I figured - OH, my redkneck mechanic buddy with whom I bartered/paid cash to rebuild my front-end knew what he was doing.

WRONGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

It stopped raining, finally, and I Just went outside (12:30am) to give this olds another look. (after borrowing a real-estate-agent-mobile RX300 Lexus for the last 2 days)


Y'all know the OEM balljoints are riveted in. and, the replacement balljoints are Bolted in.


driver'* side? new, tight, good.

passenger'* side? new, loose, one nut is completely missing, there'* metal shavings all over the stubby end of the control arm, and I can turn the remaining 2 nuts/bolts by HAND

COMPLETE FA1L.


I thank ALL you who helped me through this problem, I APOLOGIZE FOR MY MISDIAGNOSIS, but most of all, where the F*CK is my redkneck mechanic buddy with whom I bartered/paid cash to rebuild my front-end .......

son of a Bitch.

(either HE completely FA1LED, or someone is trying to off me.)


ONE final question for everyone - since the balljoint is, hand tight, do I need to get another allignment after I replace the nuts/bolts with brand new - and torque them down MYSELF tomorrow morning

p.*. when i jacked the car up off the ground, and shook it down, this problem wasn't obvious - i did it quickly, and the slop felt like/seemed like it was coming downstream from the axle... forward/backward crunching..

it wasn't until tonite that i just grabbed the damn rim, and shook the daylights out of it, while the car was 4 wheels on pavement, and saw the way the wheel was moving.. the sound, led me to lay down on the ground and look thru the rim at the balljoint... and, it was moving... so, i cut the wheel all the way..

and voila.


to save you guys all the trouble - I've already banged my head against the wall, several times.