Well I need new pads on all 4 corners, probably rotors as well.


I also happen to be a broke college student, so right now Im basically wanting to just do the front pads for the time being.

I also want to go the ceramic route, as Im tired of squealing and dusty wheels, and apparently ceramic pads were OE on my car anyway.

So here are the two im currently looking at.

Duralast-Gold Ceramics from Autozone with a price of $30.99 and local pickup. They also have a Limited Lifetime Warranty, which the way I was explained, they can be replaced when worn out providing everything else in the brake system checks out.....sounds a little fishy to me, I will need to go over it again with them, I was too fumed because the dude behind the counter was highly amused that I had modded an Intrigue.

or

Raybestos PG-Plus Ceramics from Rockauto with a price of $41.79 plus shipping and no warranty that i can tell

Now as for the rotors im not sure, I think im going to try and just get the best warranty for the price. My front ones arent warped enough that I can tell, in fact I think my back rotors are warped from the symptoms im having. My front rotors have already been turned once, so its doubtful ill be able to have them turned again. They were turned the first time because they were 2 12-inch slabs of rust pulled from a junkyard, and ive been hard on them ever since and they havent warped enough that i can tell.

any other thoughts?

My experience with the Duralast ceramics from AZ have been fine for everyday use. If you had more money and were after more performance, you could upgrade to Bendix ceramics.

well as it turns out, I was having an extreme blonde moment, im blonde, its allowed!

I dont really need new pads right now, I looked at them again today, and when compared to the wear indicators I still have a lot of meat left, even on the rear ones.

I have been noticing less stopping power lately, but the more I think about it, I notice it in city driving situations more than highway, so I guess im suffering from some brake fade? Thats the only thing I can attribute it too. That and I know I still have some air trapped in the lines from when I did the master cylinder.

It just sucks because I can never get the brakes bled, because when I have time to do it, everyone else is gone, and when everyone else has time, Im gone. I may have to invest in one of those one-man kits.

Thanks for the reply lash, Ill keep that in mind when I DO need brake pads.

Well, you certainly should get those brake lines bled as soon as is possible. That alone would explain the problem you are having and it'* not a good idea to let it go for long. It wouldn't be the worst thing if you had to break down and get yourself one of the bleeder kits. It will make all future changes much easier.

I will even break down one day and get one, as cheap as I am, lol.

The brake fade you may be experiencing may be from water/condensation in the lines near the calipers. On the Reatta.net board, I can't remember it exactly, but I read that 2% water content in the brake fluid lowers its boiling point by 100 degrees. It was something astonishing like that.

You can make your own one man bleeder with an old jar, about 8" of brakeline, and some JB Weld. Then all you need is some vaccum line to run from the jar to the caliper - long enough so the jar can set on the ground.

just warning you, if you do go with getting new pads. DO NOT GET THE DURALAST GOLD pads. worst pads ive ever put on a car in my life (they went on the alero)

braking distance doubled, u could smell them burning after a couple stops and everything.

i went with performance friction carbon metallics and the braking got 10x better.

Order one of these from Apex Performance.