A friend of mine is trying to drain my radiator, but can't find a plug.
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Elaine

check this out

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...drain+radiator

Thanks - lots of information. He already started draining it at the block.
A little more info: I have a L67 Series I M62 Eaton. Problem with SC.
He is going to be putting in a SC coupler - I've order from Rolling Performance.
I had lots of rattling noise, which a gas station told me was a alternator. Went and got an alternator, and before my friend put it in he said it wasn't the alternator but the SC. I asked him to put in the alternator anyway just to be sure. He was right, the noise was still there. We're starting the SC work piece meal. If we need to replace the nose, then that would be next.
But I don't think now is a good time to ask why he'* doing the radiator. I know he said he was going to do the valves too.

getting slighty off topic with all these problems, but be sure to check this out

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ers/index.html

you are on the right idea with the coupler, it should only rattle during idle, and if you take the belt off, and turn the pulley, you will feel some "play" if indeed the coupler is bad

If you're replacing a SC coupler, why on earth is he draining coolant from the radiator?

Doesn't the series 1 require removing the entire supercharger and therefore will need to drain some coolant? I've found it easier to syphon about a gallon from the top of the radiator when I had to get the coolant level below the level of my TB/Tstat.

There'* no reason to drain coolant whatsoever. You only lose a couple ounces if even that.

No matter how you slice it, this is a mechanical issue. I'm moving this to Forced Induction, then will fix your topic title to something more relevant.

Thanks...yes, I have a Series 1 and you either remove the whole SC or the alternator bracket for the SC work. I can't ask him why he'* doing what he'* doing right now...
At first he thought the coupler was in good shape, but after looking at the holes, they aren't exactly round (and I read that somewhere on this site), they are more oval in shape. But here'* a question for you experts....the coupler is plastic, right? But is it a very, very hard plastic? The one we took off my car was very, very hard and we were wondering if this is normal or a result of no oil or bad oil...etc. My new coupler is on it'* way to my house today. If you don't mind, I will report progress and/or ask for help. Thank you.

ovals are bad, the coupler is junk

hard is good, the new one will be just as hard