Bearing Change in Nose Drive M-62
03-24-2003, 12:14 PM
#1
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bearing Change in Nose Drive M-62
Any special tools required to change out the bearings in the nose drive when I pull my blower off this week? Will i know you have done this before correct?
03-28-2003, 06:38 AM
#2
Junior Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Muskogee, Ok
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You will need a puller to remove the pulley,I used a 3 jaw puller just use slow even pressure an it should slide off.the seal,behind the pulley is held in by a wire retainer,remove it.remove the seal using a small screwdriver or pick with a bent tip.The shaft will then have to be pressed out of the bearings.Take it to a automotive machine shop to have this done,and have them put the new bearings in.I did this 2 weeks ago and my concern ti with the new seal being a Viton 2 lip seal instead of the 2 lip teflon seal from Eaton (OEM).But so far I have had no leakage.These are the part numbers for the m-62 Bearing: 1 - 6204.C3 Bearing; 1 - 6203.C3
Seal, 1 - 7965 CR.Be sure and apply some grease to the lips of the new seal.
Is your */c knocking at idle? You might need a ZZ coupler also.
Keith
Seal, 1 - 7965 CR.Be sure and apply some grease to the lips of the new seal.
Is your */c knocking at idle? You might need a ZZ coupler also.
Keith
03-28-2003, 07:10 AM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It might be worth getting the coupler anyways. The stock one is probabaly worn to some extent and the ZZP one will last longer than the stock one anyways. It'* cheap enough where it shouldn't really matter a whole lot. I plan on rebuilding mine in a few weeks and I am doing mine, although I know I need it due to play in the pulley.
03-28-2003, 08:02 AM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Okie From Muskogee
...The shaft will then have to be pressed out of the bearings.Take it to a automotive machine shop to have this done,and have them put the new bearings in.I did this 2 weeks ago and my concern ti with the new seal being a Viton 2 lip seal instead of the 2 lip teflon seal from Eaton (OEM).But so far I have had no leakage.These are the part numbers for the m-62 Bearing: 1 - 6204.C3 Bearing; 1 - 6203.C3
Seal, 1 - 7965 CR.Be sure and apply some grease to the lips of the new seal.
...
Seal, 1 - 7965 CR.Be sure and apply some grease to the lips of the new seal.
...
03-28-2003, 09:54 PM
#5
Junior Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Muskogee, Ok
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got the bearings at a industrial bearing supply $6.00 each ,seal $ 5.00.There are several different types of seals in this size,I got a dual lip Viton seal with a garter spring You should not have to pay more than $10 to $20 dollars to have then installed
05-14-2003, 06:53 AM
#7
Junior Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Muskogee, Ok
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry for the slow reply. The */C seal is holding up good,no leaks.The */C is now working with no rattles. I have around 4ooo miles on it.My best MPG was 28.7 MPG on a 300 mile trip at 75 mph with a couple short bursts to 110 mph while passing slow traffic on a 2 lane road. Over all I am pleased with the */C rebuild.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post