Project: Blitz-Bird (pics)
#11
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Cool on finding someone to recoat. Not sure if Ed stocks or can get M112 rotors.
On removing the coating..it'* a cheap and easy soaking with CRC TB cleaner. I did it here
On removing the coating..it'* a cheap and easy soaking with CRC TB cleaner. I did it here
#12
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
That must be the latest one then. The ones I've seen have an actual coolant tank and electric pump to handle everything. The cooler air making more power is the thing I'm going off of. I have my crank rigged with an underdrive, so that makes a difference already. It'* just a matter of overdriving the blower to stock boost(god I hope the ringlands hold up!!)
Originally Posted by J Wikoff
I think the Lightning used the AC on its intercooler. I guess they found that the cooler air created more power than the AC compressor robbed.
#13
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
I wouldn't use those rotors at all. The ends of the shafts are rusted, and will never match the spec of new needle bearings in the end of the case. You're inviting big trouble by trying to use them.
#15
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by willwren
I wouldn't use those rotors at all. The ends of the shafts are rusted, and will never match the spec of new needle bearings in the end of the case. You're inviting big trouble by trying to use them.
#16
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
You'll have to have sleeves custom machined. That hardware is proprietary stuff. Good luck finding oversized bearings. Here'* the problem:
To go to an oversized bearing, you'll have to remove the rusted material by turning. In order to do that, you need to seperate both rotors from the intermediate plate. This leads us to problem 2.
Problem 2 is that it'* damn near impossible to press the rotors back together with the proper backlash for the gears through the intermediate plate.
The best SOLUTION is to get another set of rotors still installed in the intermediate plate.
Then replace the needle bearings in the case, and rebuild your nosedrive. Make sure you use a new coupler from ZZP, RollingPerformance, or TexasThunderbirds.
To go to an oversized bearing, you'll have to remove the rusted material by turning. In order to do that, you need to seperate both rotors from the intermediate plate. This leads us to problem 2.
Problem 2 is that it'* damn near impossible to press the rotors back together with the proper backlash for the gears through the intermediate plate.
The best SOLUTION is to get another set of rotors still installed in the intermediate plate.
Then replace the needle bearings in the case, and rebuild your nosedrive. Make sure you use a new coupler from ZZP, RollingPerformance, or TexasThunderbirds.
#17
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
How do I get in touch with Ed Morad? He seems like a name to start with.
P.*. The nose drive and coupler were just peachy when I pulled it apart. The oil looked like it was brand new even. No buildup inside or anything.
P.*. The nose drive and coupler were just peachy when I pulled it apart. The oil looked like it was brand new even. No buildup inside or anything.
#18
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
The nosedrive is sealed, so the condition doesn't surprise me. Replace the coupler anyway. They're only about $30.
FYI, what I'm talking about in seperating the rotors and putting them back.....you need factory templates and jigs to do it right. My suggestion is to contact Magnusson and find out what it would cost to get your rotor assembly rebuilt and recoated by them.
Or find another 112 in better condition.
I'm moving this to Forced Induction. Everything you're dealing with here applies to the M62 and M90, as well as the M45.
FYI, what I'm talking about in seperating the rotors and putting them back.....you need factory templates and jigs to do it right. My suggestion is to contact Magnusson and find out what it would cost to get your rotor assembly rebuilt and recoated by them.
Or find another 112 in better condition.
I'm moving this to Forced Induction. Everything you're dealing with here applies to the M62 and M90, as well as the M45.
#19
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Getting it to this point (mostly the rotor disassembly) is difficult enough:
Getting it back into a properly rotating assembly with no clashes is damn near impossible.
For the record, I know my mechanicals pretty damn well, and have all the tools needed
to do it. I will never again seperate the rotors from the intermediate (bearing) plate. It'*
just not worth it.
Getting it back into a properly rotating assembly with no clashes is damn near impossible.
For the record, I know my mechanicals pretty damn well, and have all the tools needed
to do it. I will never again seperate the rotors from the intermediate (bearing) plate. It'*
just not worth it.
#20
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
I bought a supercharger off another member. Kept my old parts in case I needed anything..and if I ever found a cheap way to recoat the rotors... Biggest issue would be removing them from the plate.