Alright. I'm new here as of a few days ago. Here'* some info.
I currently own a 99 Bonnie SE. Factory everything. You can never go fast enough, so yesterday I purchased a 98 GTP SC motor for $600! I also was able to pull out the engine harness from PCM to the underhood fuse block. I was not able to attain the PCM, as the owner said it was missing...yeah ok. Well now comes my question, what do I do? Ha

I have access to Alldata, and have all the PCM pin diagrams layed out. I would have to do quite a bit of pin swapping in the connector harness, and am fine with that, but what will I need to do for the boost sensor or any other issues you have all run into before?? I am not worried about motor mounts, that'* easy, and a trans rebuild will follow shortly after, even though it would be easier with motor out, my main concern just comes with my PCM and engine wiring, since it is NA and now going to supercharged. I have a place locally that has the calibrations and software to do the flash and tune, but since PCM pins are hardwired in, I fear that I may not be able to do this. I am very fluent with a ratchet, but when it comes to taking my daily driver, and doing a motor swap...time and perfection is of the essence, and I am mostly unsure since this is my first OBD 2 engine swap, and there are far more sensors and wiring than working on a carbureted v-8. I do have quite a bit of knowledge but maybe just need things layed out a little easier since I'm new to this and uncertain.... Thanks!

-Memphis

Hey Memphis.. toss that GP wiring harness off to the side.

Hop over and buy this kit. L36 to L67
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=IE

Then all you need to do is burn an L67 bin file to the pcm, and turn off the fuel pump resistor codes. I am unsure which they are, they'll pop up when you start it.

The front mount by the water pump is different from the SE in some spacing etc. Contact Zuper8 via pm about buying the one she has laying around after an engine swap on Sunday. I already texted her to give her a heads up.

You'll want to change the alternator bracket/tensioner with the one from your SE. The SC tensioner from the GP will work, be ugly, but it'll work. Other than that, swap your SE'* flex plate onto the L67 (different bolt pattern on the converter side.) and the rear exhaust manifold from your SE to the GP motor.

In total
1. Wiring harness, buy and alter your L36 harness. it'* easiest.
2. PCM, have it reprogrammed for the engine, keep the trans settings for your SE gear ratio.
3. Swap the flywheel from your SE to the GP motor
4. Swap the rear exhaust manifold from your SE to the GP motor
5. I'd swap the oil filter adapter to the new motor Fel Pro number 70644 for the gasket
6. The fuel lines are gonna be a little goofy. consider swapping to braided (search on me and braided) or just route them the best you can.

Enjoy being charged.

Wonderful, thank you very much for the prompt reply!

Items 3 through six, will be a cinch, and I have (what I believe was a PM) to Zuper8 about the front mount.

Now I have a few more questions.

With the L67 bin file, would I need to obtain this before heading to the shop that will reprogram my PCM, or should they have a hold of this? And they will have to turn the Fuel pump resistor codes of themselves correct? Or is there a deep dark sector of OBD 2 I have yet to discover?

Also the conversion kit, do the connectors just fit in line, and I see one looks like I needs to be hard wired in?

Thanks for dealing with my pesky/amateur questions. I feel knowledge is power, so I ask a lot of questions. Trust me, my instructors are sick of me and are glad I'm almost done....
Thanks.

-Memphis

The questions you are asking are perfect for another person that is searching later on. Keep up the good questions.

The boost control soleniod is two wires, one connects to a ground and the other is a pin that is inserted into the correct pin location on the PCM. The instructions or alldata can tell us the pin. The other connector is a direct plug in for the MAP sensor.

The reason on the mount from Zuper is because the mount and large spacer are different on the L36 than L67. I know from personal pulley bending experience.

L67 bin file.. do you know what software the place you are going to use works with? Some places may have the files, some may not. If they are using HPT or DHP and don't have the file I have them easily obtainable. If they are unfamiliar with the swap and messing with bins, I'd suggest having them start with an L67 bin, reprogram the transmission to the same parameters your current pcm bin file has in it, then compare the DTC'* between the two files and disable the fueling ones that are going to pop a code because you don't have those modules in your SE. It'* not a tough thing, just takes time. Then drive the car...5 drive cycles of up to temperature and driving for at least 10-20 minutes. That should vette out any codes that may pop up as a result of the swap.

Hey, sorry for the late reply, hellish week.
I found the pin locations for the boost control solenoid, so that'* taken care of, and it'* awesome to see just a in-line connect for the MAP. I have yet to recieve a reply from Zuper on the mount. I do have another question concerning the mount. Is the mount were looking for one from a 99 SC Bonnie? I ask this cause the GTP mounts were to the radiator support, and the mounts on my NA are down near the cradle. So I assume that the mounts are spaced differently down there, for the pulleys? Simple mind here at work... ha.

I have yet to contact the guys at my shop concerning their software, or how they would go about programming, but I'm assuming it would be straight forward, just making sure they keep the trans settings the same since that'* not apart of the this swap. I'll be calling today for pricing ask them about the process and removing the Fuel codes. Thanks again, it'* much appreciated!

Alright, small update.

Have the bypass wiring harness. Have the pin location/ reference voltage source figured out.
Pcm flash will cost roughly $400, that includes codes removed, trans reset, full flash to L67, and tuned for E-85.

Now with the bracket issue. I am still unable to locate a engine mount bracket from an SSEI. Apparently in this area nobody has one. I went to the GM dealership here, and they did some checking.
Turns out all the spacers for the bracket are discontinued, and vintages had nothing, so that'* a no-go. They have the bracket it self (For $88 ), just I would need to retain the rest. They gave me the parts specs, so I have the bolts and nuts facts. (Length size and strength) Also the studs are discontinued as well, and it only gives me specs for the upper two. I plan on purchasing the bracket and attaining the bolts and nuts, since we have a local hardware store with asides of bolts/nuts. Now I pose a new question, has anybody possibly measured the spacers for the bracket? Also since no spec was given for the lower stud, is that the same as the NA motor mount, or is it just omitted from my info... Thanks!