View Poll Results: How long has supercharger lasted after replacing ONLY the coupler?
less than 25,000 miles
0
0%
25,001 to 50,000 miles
0
0%
50,001 to 75,000 miles
0
0%
75,001 to 100,000 miles
0
0%
100,001 to 125,000 miles
0
0%
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Supercharger problems after replacing only the coupler?
#1
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Supercharger problems after replacing only the coupler?
For those of you who have encountered supercharger noise and have replaced ONLY the coupler, how many miles were on the supercharger at that time, was the supercharger still noisy, and how long has the supercharger survived after that?
If you've replaced only the coupler, please answer the poll and also note if you've had any other problems with the supercharger since that time, and specify what year supercharger it is so we'll know what Eaton model it is (M62 or M90).
I've been down this road only once (on my '93 SSEi at around 125,000 miles), and in my experience, it made a rattling noise only at idle so I replaced only the coupler, but the snout oil seal began leaking shortly thereafter, so I had to replace the oil seal (and also replaced the snout bearings for good measure).
If you've replaced only the coupler, please answer the poll and also note if you've had any other problems with the supercharger since that time, and specify what year supercharger it is so we'll know what Eaton model it is (M62 or M90).
I've been down this road only once (on my '93 SSEi at around 125,000 miles), and in my experience, it made a rattling noise only at idle so I replaced only the coupler, but the snout oil seal began leaking shortly thereafter, so I had to replace the oil seal (and also replaced the snout bearings for good measure).
#4
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Replaced coupler due to idle rattle in 2003. Had to do it again immediately since we put RTV gasket on nose to middle plate (whatever it is called) and not on the middle plate to */C housing. Shortly thereafter, the nose oil seal started leaking. Tried to do it couple of time with */C on the car, but seal doesn't sit properly. There is a slight leak still.
I just top the oil every couple of months and it has been running fine. Takes too long to pull the charger off to do the seal job.
I just top the oil every couple of months and it has been running fine. Takes too long to pull the charger off to do the seal job.
#5
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Originally Posted by faisalmali
Replaced coupler due to idle rattle in 2003. Had to do it again immediately since we put RTV gasket on nose to middle plate (whatever it is called) and not on the middle plate to */C housing. Shortly thereafter, the nose oil seal started leaking. Tried to do it couple of time with */C on the car, but seal doesn't sit properly. There is a slight leak still.
I just top the oil every couple of months and it has been running fine. Takes too long to pull the charger off to do the seal job.
I just top the oil every couple of months and it has been running fine. Takes too long to pull the charger off to do the seal job.
#6
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Originally Posted by billha
Originally Posted by faisalmali
Replaced coupler due to idle rattle in 2003. Had to do it again immediately since we put RTV gasket on nose to middle plate (whatever it is called) and not on the middle plate to */C housing. Shortly thereafter, the nose oil seal started leaking. Tried to do it couple of time with */C on the car, but seal doesn't sit properly. There is a slight leak still.
I just top the oil every couple of months and it has been running fine. Takes too long to pull the charger off to do the seal job.
I just top the oil every couple of months and it has been running fine. Takes too long to pull the charger off to do the seal job.
I didn't use a seal installer (just a large deep socket). Perhaps that'* what I need.
#7
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[quote="faisalmali"][quote="billha"]
I used 3 screws equally spaced to make a triangle pattern. To install the seal, first wrap the shaft with a thin slippery material - there'* a name for the stuff I used, but I can't think of the name at the moment. It'* kinda like wax paper but thinner- and gently push the seal over the shaft and the material and slide the seal in place and then gently remove the slippery material. Installing the seal doesn't require much force at all, and I installed it using nothing but my fingers to slide it in place.
Originally Posted by faisalmali
...I know - I did follow your directions (the two machine screw method?). I just can't get the damn new seal to go in properly. The middle rubber part always gets ripped.
I didn't use a seal installer (just a large deep socket). Perhaps that'* what I need.
I didn't use a seal installer (just a large deep socket). Perhaps that'* what I need.
#10
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Replaced my coupler 2 years ago, then rebuilt the entire SC (all bearings and seals) about 8 months ago (on the 93). No problems other than a slight nosedrive seal leak. I'll replace that on the car.
95 needs a coupler, but I have 2 spare SC'* now, so I'll rebuild a nosedrive for that car first, then don the coupler and replace the ND.
95 needs a coupler, but I have 2 spare SC'* now, so I'll rebuild a nosedrive for that car first, then don the coupler and replace the ND.
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