While I thought about continuing the "Anybody Got NOS" thread, that was Spidey'* and I didn't want to be accused of hi-jacking it, so here goes my installation of Nitrous Oxide on my 1990 Boneville LE.
I'm starting at the rear of the car and working my way forward day by day. I'm also doing this on a tight budget, so some of the things shown may not seem logical, but they are if you skew your viewpoint to the least expensive solution.
Ok, here we go with Day 1 and installing the bottle in the trunk along with the feed line to the engine compartment.
I removed the carpet, padding, jack box, and spare tire from the trunk. The bottle needs to be mounted on the passenger side of the trunk (to balance out the weight from the driver) with the valve end facing the front of the car. Here'* a picture of the trunk:
From the photo you can see the two parallel beads pressed into the floor of the trunk, They correspond to the frame rail on the underside of the trunk that supports the bumper (see my trailer hitch thread for a photo of that frame rail.) You can also make out the spot welds on either side of the frame rail. That'* my aim point for drilling the bottle mounting holes. That way, I'm going through both pieces of sheetmetal. On the outboard side, I'll need to back up the bolts with nuts and washers since they will only be going through one piece of sheetmetal.
The -4 AN to -4 AN bulkhead fitting needs to pass through the body and run along the underside of the car. (This is a safety issue, you never run fuel or NOS lines inside the body of the car...unless you want the fire risk of an oxygen rich enviroment right where you just happen to be sitting
) Note the circled area with the two pressed beads in the trunk floor. That is the perfect spot to pass the line through the trunk. Just in front of it is an electrical connector grommet passing through the trunk, just behind it and you hit the frame rail that connects the lower suspension together. Drill a 3/8" hole between the two beads and you will come out in a little open area behind the fuel tank.
With the holes drilled, I cut a 60" length of steel 1/4" tubing and installed 45degree -4 AN flare nuts & sleeves on them. On one end, I installed the bulkhead fitting and bent the tube with a 120 follwed by an 30 in the opposite direction. I used a tubing bender for these tight turns. I'll try to get a picture of this under the car later, but the gist of it is I want to come through the trunk floor, then hang a left and follow the underside of the trunk floor across the width of the car. That brings the feed line over to the driver'* side frame rail, which it can follow down to where all the other fuel, vent, and e-brake lines are running. I hand bent the gentle 90degree turn at the driver'* side rear of the fuel tank. That let me run the lines without having to drop the fuel tank on the car. A second line from the front of the car will meet up to this line with a -4 AN male union connector. That will give me a solid steel feed line from the trunk to the engine compartment where I can switch to a braided line to the filter and solenoid.
Here'* the same trunk with all the carpet back in, bottle mounts bolted down, and the bulkhead fitting in place. Tightening down the bulkhead fitting is the only two-person job, only because somebody had to be under the car holding the fitting with a wrench while somebody sitting in the trunk tightened the nut. In my case, my 13 year old daughter Carolyn did the honors in the trunk while I was under the car. She also did the locating and cutting of the holes in the carpet and backing for me.
As you can see, the bottle hose is a little too short. No worries, it actually belongs to my 87 Camaro. I need to measure one up and have it made on Monday to finish this connection.
Here'* the first of the "Go Cheap" notes: I used steel tubing because it is far cheaper than using braided high-pressure hose. You are looking at roughly 12 feet worth to get from the trunk to the engine bay. I though about using stainless steel tubing, but on the recomendation of the fellow at Florida Hydraulic, plain steel was the way to go in terms of over-all strength and ease of which you can work with it. Same goes for the AN fittings. I had a choice of Anodized aluminum or steel. Again, steel was the way to go (Stronger joints and cheaper too.) Cost $10 for all the steel tube and fittings vs. roughly $90 for stainless braided/teflon hose with AN fittings on them.
Step two begins this evening with bending the rest of the steel tubing for under the body to the engine compartment and fabricating a bracket for the NOS and Fuel solenoids.