Don't get the Viton for an M62. As the older SC'* wear, the old seal has worn a groove into the input shaft. the viton is too hard (less pliable/flexible) to seal into this 'unexpected' groove in a timely manner. Your ND will leak for a month or two until it fully seats.
That kit will get you an extra bottle of oil. You need one, but an M90 would need both. I don't know what you plan to do with the coupler, but consider that also. The good news is that he uses the GM gasket maker now instead of the black **** that I don't car for. That'* new. Chris Britton (the owner of RP) is quick to ship and will make you very happy.
You will need a GOOD press available or you will not be able to rebuild that ND.
Excellent. My dad is a Machinist, so he has many presses available to be used, so he will do the seal for me. So pretty much the M90 instructions are the same for the M62? I will also order a coupler from RP, I forgot to mention that.
Putting the Nosedrive back together can be tricky. As you press one bearing in, the other wants to come out. You have to back it up with a good block on the coupler pins while you press the top (larger) bearing from the input shaft end.
Measure how deep the pin plate is with respect to the 'bottom' of the nosedrive where it bolts to the rotor plate before you tear it apart so you know you've pressed it back in to the correct depth when you're done.
Ok, I got the nosedrive off last night. Lots of pretty sparkles in the oil. Coupler is egged out, bearings LOOK fine, but my dad said that the balls can wear down over time and cause the noise I am most likely hearing. I am ready to pull the shaft out of the nosedrive, how does it come out?
Measure the depth of the pin plate FIRST so that when you press it back in, you know it'* fully seated.
You better use a press for assembly or you'll have trouble. You'll need to press from BOTH ENDS. In other words, a block sitting on the press supporting the pin plate (NOT on the pins) and another block (or the ram) pressing down on the top bearing AROUND the threaded input shaft.
Ok, well since this was rebuilt before, I kinda don't trust the depth it would be at right now, with the way it was making noise and leaking at the seal. So what would be a general measurement that the depth falls into, so I can see it if is within spec?