Coupler just pulls off after you get everything apart.

Couplers don't cause a loss of power unless they're broken. How much play is there when you rotate the pulley back and forth by hand?

Moving to Forced Induction.

Could it be the belt tensioner? wouldn't the belt slip cause massive power loss?

Brand new tensioner and pulley.... there is a fair amount of play in it. The noise im hearing from my car was ruled out to be the tensioner or pulley on it because it was totally replaced.... The only other things in line with that are the harmonic balancer and Ac?t

It very well could be your harmonic balancer gone bad, and giving KR readings.

OR you spun a bearing.

Does it sound like this?
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t=90770c56.flv

When was the last oil change?

Its not an engine knock... engine was just completely rebuilt so im assuming they didn t re use the old oil lol? it has something to do with the pulley system in line with the SC.... if u give it gas the thing bounces all over the place. I took off the sc and ordered a new coupler i spun everythign else and it all seems fine except i dont know how to test the harmonic balancer

Even if the engine was rebuilt, there could still be knock if it wasn't rebuilt correctly. Rod caps may not have been torqued correctly and have lost some clamping power to the journals, causing slap...or everything was assembled w/o use of assembly lube. There could be alot of variables inside that motor if it wasn't done right. I would take a look at your oil to see if there is any metallic flakes swimming around. Also, was the oil changed since the rebuild? The oil that is first used since the rebuild should be changed very soon after startup to flush remaining debris out. Maybe none of the above is your problem right now, but very well *could* be.

Harmonic balancer....take a peek at it and see if the rubber that is inside is starting to separate from the outer pulley. Actually, easiest way to tell if it is the balancer...take all belts off and start it, but don't let it run for more than say 10 seconds. That should be plenty of time to determine if your noise is in the bottom end or not. If it goes away, there is something in the accessory drive that ain't what it supposed to be (a/c, */c, etc.). If it is still there, either the balancer is shot...or something inside the motor.

Being unsure how many miles are on the new motor.. I was curious and wanted to suggest changing the first oil in the new motor under 500 miles. Then sticking to a set routine of 3,000 miles for each oil change.

Wanted to ensure you didn't have 10,000 on the new engine w/o changing the oil.

lol yes bill i admit my fault there but i dont think me changign the oil would have saved the engine whne it was sticking at 6000 rpms on the highway..... Well i drove it for about 4 days then this problem happened if it was built wrong wouldnt this **** happen right away?