Hey guys, name'* Andrei. I'm a member on the regalgs.com and w-body.com forums and I was asking about how it would be possible to bolt on an Eaton M62 supercharger on an L27 (Series 1 3800) and they sent me here. They were telling me that the internals are the same for the most part.

What I'd like to know is whether or not I can reliably install an Eaton M62 supercharger on My L27 engine (its a 1995 Buick Regal), and if I can, what exactly would I need to do it.

So far as I've heard, they told me I would need a new fuel pump, a new PCM, and of course the supercharger. Does anyone know anything about this upgrade? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Andrei

We have a member that did this swap on an L27 lower end. Search out the posts on this by Sandrock and Jr's3800, those two did the work and it'* up and running today.

There is some question as to how well it may hold up over time though as the internals are different.

Ah, grasshappa yearns for more power I see.

Hmm.

Here is what I can offer as far as advice goes. Going from a car that originally came with an L27 to an L67 requires a bit more work than someone that had an L67 to start with and had little choice but to replace it with an L27 core that is now supercharged. Not only do you need a stiffer suspension, you also need the HD trans to do with it, otherwise things will break.

Not much difference with internals between the 27 and the 67. Biggest are the pistons and rods. And while I agree with Boosty as far as long-term reliability, I agree to an extent. Under *STOCK* L67 power levels, a boosted L27 will last as long as you need it to. But, you have to refrain from modding beyond that point (dropping a pulley size, porting and polishing, etc.) unless you take precautions and keeping in mind that this Frankenmotor could very easily grenade itself. The precaution I speak of is tuning the PCM to deliver a richer-than-normal mixture, but that can only go so far.

In short, taking an L27 and making it into an L67 should only be done as a last resort if a good-condition L67 cannot be sourced, and only then you must keep it at stock L67 power levels. Keep in mind I already had all the HD components, including the trans and suspension, so those are things you will need to find.

The basic story is that your trans, differential, and axles are not up to par. Aside from that, the wristpins and pistons aren't as important, but still may be an issue over time.

A full swap to a 2.97 ratio 4T60E(hd), L67 axles, and L67 short block is the best option by far. By the time you swap accessory brackets, HB, and all that, you'll wish you'd just done the full swap anyway.

Hmm...

I've already stiffened the suspension up a lot, and I rebuilt the tranny about 2000 miles ago. However, the engine currently has 150,600 miles on it. I get the feeling someone'* going to tell me that I'm asking for a lot of trouble if I try to bolt on an M62 to this 150k engine.

Your suspension has no effect on the strength of the axles or trans.

Your rebuild still leaves you short on handling the torque the L67 produces. Your torque will be PEAKING below 3000 rpm'*. You'll be at about 80% of your peak torque at 2200-2400 rpm'*. Your stock trans and gear ratio won't hold up long.

At 150k on those pistons and wristpins, I'd be questioning the idea.

You can pick up an L67 and trans at the wrecker for a good price if you shop around. That way you can get the axles, PCM, and wiring harness also at the same time. Remember that the 91-93 was 20hp and 15ft/lbs less than the 94/95 Series 1 L67. That may be a factor in your decision.

If you're determined to do the top swap instead, use a Gen2 M62 from a 91-93 L67, and use the 94/95 2.85" pulley to underboost at about 5-6psi. I'd say that might be a safe limit.

With the miles that he has, I agree. I kept my stock pulley for 92/93, but the engine the topswap went on was in real good shape on the inside, and had less than 90k on it. It eventually ended up with a full gasket set (including head gaskets), brand new lifters, and polished valves, along with a p&p lower intake manifold.

You also need to be aware of the smaller things, aside from the trans and axles. L67s have a different location for their knock sensors, and have oil coolers that L27s don't have. In all honesty, you really should locate an L67 powered vehicle and get the whole thing and swap. Doing the topswap only with your setup, you are going to be miserable with the gear ratio alone, let alone the tuning involved.

Terbow here offered me a supercharger, throttlebody, lower intake manifold, fuel rail, and injectors, from a 95 bonneville ssei for $300.

If I were to buy this whole setup, how much more would I need to get the whole job done? I had the impression that a few pieces such as the alternator, idler pulley, and power steering were moved to a different location to accomodate the supercharger on the Series 1 L67.

Does anyone know what I'll need to do this?

I'll take his deal if I can figure out exactly what I need to supercharge this L27 so when i start installing it, I won't run into any problems whatsoever. I really can't afford more than a weekend'* worth of downtime.

Am I correct in thinking I'll also need a new PCM?

You'll need not only the accessory braket, but the PS pump including remote reservior and alternator also. they're different. You also need the harmonic balancer, PCM, and wiring harness. You also need the trans and axles. Hell, there'* probably a bunch of crap I'm forgetting too.

There'* a common misconception that these are the SAME engines and setups, and that this stuff is plug/play. It is NOT. One was built for it, the other wasn't.

And...if you can only afford one weekend for downtime, you are going to need a bunch of friends with expertise in this swap.