hmmmm...which company is ED Morad backed by? Or John T? I am pretty sure Digital Ken isn't company backed either, although I could be wrong there. They are in the 11'*, and I don't see anybody handing money to them. Besides the fact that there are PLENTY of people in the low-mid 12'* that aren't company backed at all too.

Exactly. If your engine had infinite flow, you wouldn't have boost. That is why when you open up your exhaust the boost goes down, because the engine is flowing better. It is still getting the same amount of air (or more), but there is less boost because the air isn't backing up in the intake manifold.

Yup. They have big cams, free flowing intakes, and free flowing exhausts. Because of this, their blowers are moving the same amount of air (or more) as someone making 15 or 17psi, but they are getting less boost because the air is flowing through the engine and not backing up in the intake manifold. This is the exact reason why Ed Morad (runs 11'*) is using a 2.6" Pulley on his M90 and making 12psi boost, while we are making 15psi boost with a 2.6" Pulley on our M90. Ed Morad has a big cam, ported & polished heads, and a more free flowing exhaust, while we are running the stock cam with 1.9 rocker arms, and stock heads, and an exhaust that doesn't flow quite as well.

Yup. The stock pistons and all the other forged parts in an L67 are not indestructible. Yeah, they are stronger than the L27 or L36 pistons, but they are still breakable. That is why people that are running low 12'*, and 11'* have aftermarket forged pistons. The stock pistons are nothing special and will break plenty easy when running high amounts of boost, or a lot of timing.

You put a 16G on a non-turbo talon? How much boost were you runnnig? I have extensive knowledge of talons (and other mitsubishi cars). I am interested to hear what you did to the engine.

Either way, I understand where you are coming from in terms of the money issue. Although many of the people ripping 11'* are sponsored, I have seen many GTPs running 12'* (low 12'* even) on the drivers money. Yes, in order to make a car run 11'* or 12'*, it does require a good amount of money, especially with the platform you chose. Don't get me wrong, the water / alcohol route is the cheap route, and it does help. The thing to realize is, there are shops out there that will help you. If you get to know enough people, you would eb surprised how many things you could get done for cheap. I am currently working with a few local shops for both of my cars. The H-body is going to have to stay stock for now. My stealth is of higher priority, but once it breaks 9'* next summer, I will move on to my Olds. I think I am going to go the same route as Scott and turbo my car. It will all be out of pocket for me, but I have made a lot of friends, so cost shouldnt be insane.

Why did you only push 14psi on an upgraded turbo? A stock 14B turbo will easy push 15psi... Just curious.

Blow off valve doesnt control boost, a boost controller or waste gate does. You probably didnt have enough fuel (injectors) to handle the boost. Easy enough fix thought. With an aftermarket fuel controller ($300), you can set the injectors to over 100% duty cycle.

The blow-off valve only triggers off the throttle... It is meant to bleed boost when you are shifting, or when you left off the throttle (more of less when the throttlebody closes). Either way, with stock injectors, 14psi was probably a safe level. Thats pretty cool. At least I am not the only mitsu person on these forums... LOL

Umm, just to clear something up. When you run water injection the density of the air increases.

When a gas gets cooler it will become more dense. But it'* volume also decreases. Put a ballon in the fridge, and you'll see what i mean. So if you blow cold air into a ballon it can hold more air than if you put in hot air. Water Injection works the same way. Put your hand in some water and take your hand out, it feels cool right? Well it'* trying to get the heat into equilibrium. When it is introduced to air it will take some of the heat from the air. Decreasing volume and increasing density. If you do this before the throttle body and SC, you can keep the density up and the overall temperature down. So yes, you do get more air in from water injection.

You introduce more o2 into the cylinder'* with the same ammount of CFM. More 02 in the cylinder means you can introduce more fuel and you get more power.

Boost probably increases in our cars because the lower intake gets full because the cylinders can't take it all in.

I hate to break this to you, but you are wrong. If you add COLD water the air will be more dense, but, humid air is less dense then dry air. That is why people always bitch about humid weather conditions when they run at the track. But, water injection DOES cool the air, which does make it more dense... It all depends what temp the water is. If you can keep the water quite cool (with ice), then it is beneficial. If it is hot, like the engine, it is a toss up whether it will be beneficial or not. So, when you take a few more chemistry classes, come back and talk to me... LOL. Not trying to start ****, but don't say something unless you KNOW it to be true.