No Boost - need help!
#1
No Boost - need help!
Hello,
New to the board and glad I found it!. I need help.
My 2000 ssei seems to have lost boost from the */C. It has ~55K miles and has never indicated any problems. It has always sort of whined (figure that was normal) but never made any other rattles etc. It just stopped all of a sudden. Got in yesterday afternnon and no power! I searched a little bit on this board, checked the car and here is what I can report.
1) The belt has not come off and does not appear to be slipping in any fashion.
2) SES light did not iluminate and no codes were thrown (had autopart store check anyways)
3) checked the oil level and it may be a tad low but nothing that would cause concern. I will top it off tomorrow when I can get the fluid. Did look dirty though. Perhaps time to flush and change? I need two 6 oz bottles to fill, with extras too flush?
4) It drives like a dog and sounds completely different. Boost gauge struggles to make it back up to zero.
Not sure what it is. Advice would be greatly appreciated. I was going to look for a vacuum leak. Where should I look? How could I tell if there was a problem with the wastegate, and where is it? Where is the BCS? How do I check for it? I have a haynes manual but the darn thing doesn't say anthing about */C engines. I'm fairly resourceful and can handle most small repairs myself once I know what it is. As long as I can make the time! I would rather try and atleast diagnose the problem before handing it over to a mechanic. Seems like this is the place for good advice. Thanks in advance!!!
Any danger in driving it as long as the pully is turning fine?
Sunset_Z
New to the board and glad I found it!. I need help.
My 2000 ssei seems to have lost boost from the */C. It has ~55K miles and has never indicated any problems. It has always sort of whined (figure that was normal) but never made any other rattles etc. It just stopped all of a sudden. Got in yesterday afternnon and no power! I searched a little bit on this board, checked the car and here is what I can report.
1) The belt has not come off and does not appear to be slipping in any fashion.
2) SES light did not iluminate and no codes were thrown (had autopart store check anyways)
3) checked the oil level and it may be a tad low but nothing that would cause concern. I will top it off tomorrow when I can get the fluid. Did look dirty though. Perhaps time to flush and change? I need two 6 oz bottles to fill, with extras too flush?
4) It drives like a dog and sounds completely different. Boost gauge struggles to make it back up to zero.
Not sure what it is. Advice would be greatly appreciated. I was going to look for a vacuum leak. Where should I look? How could I tell if there was a problem with the wastegate, and where is it? Where is the BCS? How do I check for it? I have a haynes manual but the darn thing doesn't say anthing about */C engines. I'm fairly resourceful and can handle most small repairs myself once I know what it is. As long as I can make the time! I would rather try and atleast diagnose the problem before handing it over to a mechanic. Seems like this is the place for good advice. Thanks in advance!!!
Any danger in driving it as long as the pully is turning fine?
Sunset_Z
#4
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Probably fine to drive, as it is unlikely the SC has much of a problem. I would guess either the boost control actuator or boost control solenoid has become unhooked or non-functional.
Check out the small black cylinder (BCA) towards the intake end of the SC and the small black box right next to it (BCS). All the vacuum lines attached? Should be one running to the top of the BCA, then from the bottom of it to the right, rear port on the BCS (the front right port should have a little foam filter on it), then out the back of the BCS that leads off somewhere else.
Check out the small black cylinder (BCA) towards the intake end of the SC and the small black box right next to it (BCS). All the vacuum lines attached? Should be one running to the top of the BCA, then from the bottom of it to the right, rear port on the BCS (the front right port should have a little foam filter on it), then out the back of the BCS that leads off somewhere else.
#5
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i had this problem too, it was a boost control solenoid, cannot get boost, my friend was able to follow me with his corolla
but now...
like jwikoff99 said, just make sure everything is plugged.
but now...
like jwikoff99 said, just make sure everything is plugged.
#6
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Originally Posted by ssei1995
Could it be a collapsed or clogged catalytic converter?
I agree completely with the disconnected/failed BCS or BCA. Also check the T fitting under the nosedrive of the SC.
#7
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You are right...I do not know what I was thinking!!! Hard to think when you are responding from a different time zone, 15 hours time difference., from the land of Kia'*, Hyundai'* and Daewoo'*.
#9
BCS is what?
Ok,
finally going out today to check out the car. Today ~ half the boost has returned and the car actually drives ok (not full boost though). It also has a litlle more of a rattling sound to the whine of the charger. I didn't do anything, which probably means vacuum leak or intermittent actuator?
Ok. so according to GM an others there is no BCS (they call it something else)
GM has #01997244 Vauum Valve (Valve, By-pass) $34.76
and also #012371988 Actuator Connector (Actuator By-pass valve) $192.72
I'm guessing the part I would likely need would be the 1st one which is also referred to as the BCS? I'm guessing this base on price and other comments on this board.
Out to the car......let'* hope it is a simple connection issue.
Sunset_Z
finally going out today to check out the car. Today ~ half the boost has returned and the car actually drives ok (not full boost though). It also has a litlle more of a rattling sound to the whine of the charger. I didn't do anything, which probably means vacuum leak or intermittent actuator?
Ok. so according to GM an others there is no BCS (they call it something else)
GM has #01997244 Vauum Valve (Valve, By-pass) $34.76
and also #012371988 Actuator Connector (Actuator By-pass valve) $192.72
I'm guessing the part I would likely need would be the 1st one which is also referred to as the BCS? I'm guessing this base on price and other comments on this board.
Out to the car......let'* hope it is a simple connection issue.
Sunset_Z
#10
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Remove the BCS and BCA, and check the Actuator (BCA) for full travel. Then manually actuate the bypass shaft 90 degrees. If they feel good, replace the BCS (boost control solonoid) if you're certain you have no vacuum leaks. Might be a good time to do the boost bypass and BCA optimization trick.