Coupler Change - Nosedrive Stuck On *update*
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Coupler Change - Nosedrive Stuck On *update*
So I'm going to change my coupler and I have all the bolts out - Yes even the one that goes straight down into the LIM. However, when trying to take off the nosedrive it won't budge. Apparently this thing has been opened up before because I can see red gasket maker as I look through the open bolt holes. It'* also sealed between the rotor casing and plate. I don't want to damage anything by wiggling/pounding/prying on something, so what should I do? Am I just a big wuss or what?
#2
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Wiggle and pull, wiggle and pull. Tap with a wood or rubber (or hard plastic) mallet around the joint. Wiggle, pull, etc. You're pulling it off two algnment pins as well.
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Yeah so I got it off, but what'* ths??
Aftermarket coupler
Which boggles my mind, because I thought the noise I was hearing was due to a bad coupler...
Now listen to this video of me spinning the rotors myself by holding onto one of the pins...(whatever it'* worth, the oil was 100% full and relatively clean when I changed it out. The noise was also present before I even started removing the nosedrive so I know I didn't damage anything myself)
http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t...nt=SCNoise.flv
This was taken with the camera placed next to the inlet of the supercharger - TB removed to hear better.
That don't sound right :?
One more thing to add whatever it'* worth: I'm making full boost and the car seems to pull as hard as it should.
Aftermarket coupler
Which boggles my mind, because I thought the noise I was hearing was due to a bad coupler...
Now listen to this video of me spinning the rotors myself by holding onto one of the pins...(whatever it'* worth, the oil was 100% full and relatively clean when I changed it out. The noise was also present before I even started removing the nosedrive so I know I didn't damage anything myself)
http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t...nt=SCNoise.flv
This was taken with the camera placed next to the inlet of the supercharger - TB removed to hear better.
That don't sound right :?
One more thing to add whatever it'* worth: I'm making full boost and the car seems to pull as hard as it should.
#4
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Keep in mind that while you spin it, you create flow/boost pulses. 3 per revolution. That may be the sound. The important thing is how does it FEEL?
Smooth? No grinding, slop, etc? Did you check the coupler swap before pulling the ND? Did it have any play? How do the nosedrive bearings feel and sound?
Put the nosedrive back on to test this with the older coupler to be sure.
Aftermarket couplers wear also.
Smooth? No grinding, slop, etc? Did you check the coupler swap before pulling the ND? Did it have any play? How do the nosedrive bearings feel and sound?
Put the nosedrive back on to test this with the older coupler to be sure.
Aftermarket couplers wear also.
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With the old coupler on the nosedrive everything FELT just fine - nice and smooth with no play whatsoever - only that sound, NO grinding. I hear the exact same noise at about the same frequency (10 pulses per second or so) while driving - only while under load/Boost above 2k rpm before the whine drowns it out. When I rev in Neutral, I can't hear it.
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turn you coupler one notch , try, turn another notch , try. Get what I mean? Honest, I did the same thing on mine. there was one way that it was tight, the rest had slop.
after you try the three positions, turn it around and try the other three
after you try the three positions, turn it around and try the other three
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I just want to be sure I'm making myself clear...that noise in the video was with NO coupler on the supercharger. I guess I'm kind of confused how the coupler will matter in this instance...
#8
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Might as well pull the rotors at this point. Look for wear/damage/impact areas, or excessive wear on the ends where they insert into the needle bearings.
Post more pics.
Post more pics.
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Originally Posted by dillcc
I just want to be sure I'm making myself clear...that noise in the video was with NO coupler on the supercharger. I guess I'm kind of confused how the coupler will matter in this instance...