Does anybody make manifolds that are perfectly sealed and flow correctly? If they leak, why is that a problem? Is it because they have to be perfectly sealed to flow correctly. Are they getting red hot because they are restricted or just can't get the gases out fast enough? Where is a good place to get a scan tool and a fuel pressure meter? Where is the correct place to go to get instructions on how to use it?

We will probably take the engine out next week. As soon as I get it apart, I'll let you know what I tore up.

I am a little bit confused on this KR thing. I understand that it stands for Knock Retrard? Right? But I was always under the impression that this engine has a knock sensor and would automatically retard the timing so it would not knock and damage the engine? How much of all this do I not understand?

Nobody makes manifolds for us. They crack over time with age. They need to be repaired after about 100k MAINLY for those of us running higher boost.

They are getting red hot probably because you're running LEAN. Temps go up when that happens.

Buy a fuel pressure gauge at your auto parts store. Buy an Actron CP9110 scantool with GM cartridge and 12-pin ALDL cable <-----TWELVE pin. You can find these on eBay quite often.

When you get your gauge, we'll tell you what to do. Same with the scantool. But if your motor is blown, you probably have a little waiting time.

The PCM can only retard the timing by a certain amount. And by the time the sensor hears it, it'* already happened. The damage occurs over time.

Not near as bad as I feared. Blown head gasket on front(left) head on center cylnder. It had already been replaced with a Felpro gasket at 95,000 miles because they had it apart to replace the crank and one rod. I have no idea why that had to be done, othe rthan it was just broke It now has 157,000. IT has had the smaller pulley the last 10,000 miles. The front(left) exhaust manifold is cracked big time and a new GM one has already been ordered. I have also replaced the harmonic balancer with a Napa one and it has cracked and slipped on the crank no less than 90 degrees. It looks like it jumped out of the keyway and traveled about 90 degrees until I took it apart. I did not replace the key when I replaced the balancer. It looked like a bitch to take out. It was easier after the motor was out and the timing cover was off!

Now that it is apart and we know what is wrong, do you have any suggestions on ANYTHING going forward? Especially brand of head gasket that you have used?

Your balancer jumped the key? You have bigger problems than you think. Either you seized the crank, or one of your accessories froze up. Crank is the most likely. That engine sounds fooked from your description. We don't blow head gaskets. If you did, you screwed something up BAD.

You better go for a full teardown and rebuild at this point.

Got engine put back together today. Will probably reinstall into the car next weekend. Front(left) exhaust manifold was cracked all over. Got a new GM one. Put the balancer back on. My friend thinks the balancer was not on tight enough. I tend to agree. Put a GM balancer on this time. Here is the dumb part: I changed the fuel filter today also. The car has 157,000 miles on it. I got it when it had 95,000 on it. I just now changed the fuel filter. Could not blow through it at all. I'll bet the fuel pump turns orange in the tank. Proabably starved the poor car for fuel. I changed it out with an OEM AC filter. Is there some sort of high performance fuel filter I should use instead?

I have also read about thermostats here. I assume it still has the 195 degree. Should I switch to a 180 degree?

OEM AC Delco is a great choice. I bet that fuel pump hops out and gives you a hug.

On the T stat, wouldn't hurt at all to put a 180 in, especially since you had been talking about changing the pulley size.

Don't change that pulley until you OWN a scantool and fuel pressure gauge. Don't run any fuel less than 91 octane.

You should be running a 2.5" pulley right now. Did you fix the cracks on the old manifold that is still on the car?

We removed the the rear(right) manifold and it showed no evidence of cracks, so we reused it.

I am putting the stock pulley back on and will keep it on a no less than 91 octane diet.

I will also locate a scan tool and fuel pressure guage. When the motor is back in and running, I'll report back. Any other advice you can give me in the meantime will be appreciated.

I have a hard time believing that your rear manifold isn't cracked. They all are. And the cracks can be VERY difficult to see. VERY VERY difficult.

It does happen though. On my 95 the rear mani was perfect while the front was horribly cracked.