Bad Supercharger?!? (Update: No, just bad BCS)
03-31-2004, 06:21 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
If you need to replace hte m90, step up to a modified one while you're at it.
Gen 5 anyone?
Gen 5 anyone?
03-31-2004, 06:44 PM
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Get the BCS first. It'* cheap and can't hurt anything to try.
Is the supercharger making any unnecessary noises (rattles, squeels, etc...)?
If putting a new supercharger on I agree with Rogue. Ed is a great guy with excellent knowledge and is a very good guy to deal with.
If you decide to go another route, you might try one of your northern brothers who sell rebuilt supercharges (quality chargers at that).
The name of the place ... Canadian Superchargers. www.canadiansupercharger.com
Though they aren't real close to you at least you won't have to deal with the shipping charges associated with shipping across the border.
Good luck
Is the supercharger making any unnecessary noises (rattles, squeels, etc...)?
If putting a new supercharger on I agree with Rogue. Ed is a great guy with excellent knowledge and is a very good guy to deal with.
If you decide to go another route, you might try one of your northern brothers who sell rebuilt supercharges (quality chargers at that).
The name of the place ... Canadian Superchargers. www.canadiansupercharger.com
Though they aren't real close to you at least you won't have to deal with the shipping charges associated with shipping across the border.
Good luck
04-01-2004, 10:42 AM
#14
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Get the boost control solenoid and change it out. Simple hand tools is all you'll need. I'm confident you do this task, heck you mounted your own fog lights and revamped the mounts, this is straight remove and install.
04-01-2004, 12:13 PM
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For the record, a Series 1 canNOT run without the SC belt, but the Series 2 can. Just be careful about which one you have if you try this (I know Merlin has a 2, just wanted to get that out there).
Merlin, as stated here, there'* very little that can go WRONG with an Eaton blower to make it produce low boost, other than a slipping belt that might be due to a mechanical binding. If your SC spins freely with the belt off (spin by hand), go directly to the BCS or wastegate actuator. Read my post yesterday to Drifter regarding his (here in Forced Induction) for a quick visual test, and try the bypass also. It'* here in Forced Induction to narrow your search.
Merlin, as stated here, there'* very little that can go WRONG with an Eaton blower to make it produce low boost, other than a slipping belt that might be due to a mechanical binding. If your SC spins freely with the belt off (spin by hand), go directly to the BCS or wastegate actuator. Read my post yesterday to Drifter regarding his (here in Forced Induction) for a quick visual test, and try the bypass also. It'* here in Forced Induction to narrow your search.
04-01-2004, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
For the record, a Series 1 canNOT run without the SC belt, but the Series 2 can. Just be careful about which one you have if you try this (I know Merlin has a 2, just wanted to get that out there). .
04-01-2004, 12:45 PM
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I'm still waking up. Late night. I suppose I should say why 
On a Series 1 (92-95), the Supercharger is driven by the same belt that drives the water pump. Serious engine damage can occur in a very short period of time if you do that!
EDIT: There may be a way to run a shorter belt, bypassing the SC altogether, but I DON'T think you can unless you de-couple the SC (by removing the coupler) because you still need that pulley there. I'd have to look at it more carefully to be certain.
04-01-2004, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Late night. I suppose I should say why
heh....
04-01-2004, 02:32 PM
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If it'* bypassing and the */C seems fine.. don't take the belt off unless you have a bearing or belt problem.. I ran mine for 7 days without the */C belt and it was slow as a civic.. it is worse then even the N/A cars, cause the intake is no longer the same as N/A where the intake is pretty much straight thru.. it now has to go thru the whole */C causing more drag on the intake air thus robbing more power then N/A cars ( not to mention bad gas mileage..). I have a similar post and seems to be the same problem with the solenoid but won't be changing that as soon as I want. 
but at least I got some boost.. much like you 
but at least I got some boost.. much like you
04-01-2004, 07:14 PM
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OK.... update...
Had it to AFAR again today.... they did a complete check on everything... BCS included... and it still only produced 3psi...
AFAR (John) sent me this info...
So it looks like a new (or refurb) SC for me...
I'm going to try a last ditch effort tomorrow, I'm bringing to the dealer (to get my antenna fixed) and they said they can also check the SC for me. I figure it can't get much worse.
Had it to AFAR again today.... they did a complete check on everything... BCS included... and it still only produced 3psi...
AFAR (John) sent me this info...
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Under most conditions, the PCM commands the boost
control solenoid to operate at a 100% duty cycle (ON) to allow full boost
pressure upon demand. However, it reverse gear is selected or the PCM
detects rapid deceleration or engine load is extremely high, reduced boost
pressure is desired. Under these conditions, the PCM commands the boost
control solenoid to operate at a 0% duty cycle (OFF), which opens the
bypass valve. With the Bypass valve open, boost pressure is reduced by
recirculating intake air back through the supercharger inlet.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
If the Boost Control System Check has been performed and
no electrical or vacuum related fault is noted, check for the following
conditions:
a.. Misadjusted or sticking Bypass Valve Actuator.
Refer to Bypass Valve Actuator .
b.. Binding Bypass Valve or Bypass Valve linkage.
Refer to Supercharger .
An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection,
rubbed through wire insulation, or a wire broken inside the insulation.
Check for the following conditions:
a.. Poor Connection or Damaged Harness - Inspect PCM
harness connector for backed out terminals, improper mating, improperly
formed or damaged terminals, poor terminal to wire connection and damaged
harness.
b.. Intermittent Test - Disconnect PCM and install a
DVM to monitor voltage between the Boost Control Solenoid control circuit
at the PCM connector and ground. With the key ON, observe voltage while
manipulating related connectors and wiring harness. If the failure is
induced, the voltage display will change. This may indicate the location
of the fault
TEST DESCRIPTION
Number(*) below refer to the step number(*) on the
Diagnostic Table.
2.. Verifies ignition feed to the boost control
solenoid.
3.. The boost control solenoid should be commanded OFF
(0% duty cycle) with the ignition ON, engine not running. If the system is
functioning properly, the test light should be OFF.
4.. Ensures that the PCM can control the 0DM output
for the Boost Control Solenoid and the Boost Control Solenoid control
circuit is not open.
5.. Checks for a malfunctioning Boost Control Solenoid
(sticking open or leaking).
20.. This vehicle is equipped with a PCM which
utilizes an Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM).
When the PCM is being replaced, the new PCM must be programmed.
Under most conditions, the PCM commands the boost
control solenoid to operate at a 100% duty cycle (ON) to allow full boost
pressure upon demand. However, it reverse gear is selected or the PCM
detects rapid deceleration or engine load is extremely high, reduced boost
pressure is desired. Under these conditions, the PCM commands the boost
control solenoid to operate at a 0% duty cycle (OFF), which opens the
bypass valve. With the Bypass valve open, boost pressure is reduced by
recirculating intake air back through the supercharger inlet.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
If the Boost Control System Check has been performed and
no electrical or vacuum related fault is noted, check for the following
conditions:
a.. Misadjusted or sticking Bypass Valve Actuator.
Refer to Bypass Valve Actuator .
b.. Binding Bypass Valve or Bypass Valve linkage.
Refer to Supercharger .
An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection,
rubbed through wire insulation, or a wire broken inside the insulation.
Check for the following conditions:
a.. Poor Connection or Damaged Harness - Inspect PCM
harness connector for backed out terminals, improper mating, improperly
formed or damaged terminals, poor terminal to wire connection and damaged
harness.
b.. Intermittent Test - Disconnect PCM and install a
DVM to monitor voltage between the Boost Control Solenoid control circuit
at the PCM connector and ground. With the key ON, observe voltage while
manipulating related connectors and wiring harness. If the failure is
induced, the voltage display will change. This may indicate the location
of the fault
TEST DESCRIPTION
Number(*) below refer to the step number(*) on the
Diagnostic Table.
2.. Verifies ignition feed to the boost control
solenoid.
3.. The boost control solenoid should be commanded OFF
(0% duty cycle) with the ignition ON, engine not running. If the system is
functioning properly, the test light should be OFF.
4.. Ensures that the PCM can control the 0DM output
for the Boost Control Solenoid and the Boost Control Solenoid control
circuit is not open.
5.. Checks for a malfunctioning Boost Control Solenoid
(sticking open or leaking).
20.. This vehicle is equipped with a PCM which
utilizes an Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM).
When the PCM is being replaced, the new PCM must be programmed.
I'm going to try a last ditch effort tomorrow, I'm bringing to the dealer (to get my antenna fixed) and they said they can also check the SC for me. I figure it can't get much worse.