Wonky gauges?
#12
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
I think you are experiencing similar issues to this thread.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=78786
I have a thought in my last post there, that bascially is thinking the problem is on the main circuit boards. The only way to prove or disprove that theory is to swap parts.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=78786
I have a thought in my last post there, that bascially is thinking the problem is on the main circuit boards. The only way to prove or disprove that theory is to swap parts.
#13
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
Mine is kinda similar, but it'* only the three gauges on the right, and I think the gas gauge. It will work right sometimes, and cause those needles to right themselves, then pop back to one end or the other. The gas gauge doesn't max or bottom out, but it does read quite high.
#14
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Only the three on the right.. ok.. I was able to fix that with a small pcb that is behind them on my 95. I think Jimmyfloyd might have one handy.
#16
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
If it were an intermittant connection, why would the boost gauge still work while the oil gauge is maxed and the temp is bottomed? The boost is off by varying large amounts, but it still works. And when the other gauges come back, the boost gauge is still off. And the fuel gauge is definately acting up too, just not as much. Is there another ground point that is a possibility?
#17
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Sorry...
When you said only the three gauges on the right.. that was usually found to be the single board.
On the grounding points. Do you have a 92 FSM for your car, if so..that would be your best starting point to locate all the grounds. I would go after all the grounds in the car to ensure all the possibilites of current feeding back through another circuit is eliminated.
When you said only the three gauges on the right.. that was usually found to be the single board.
On the grounding points. Do you have a 92 FSM for your car, if so..that would be your best starting point to locate all the grounds. I would go after all the grounds in the car to ensure all the possibilites of current feeding back through another circuit is eliminated.
#18
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
How the freak does the headlight **** come off? I got everything off, leaving the headlight switch wired and the upper trim loose attached to it because I can't get the **** off. Fiddled, it worked, put it back together, and it doesn't work again. I need to take the cluster back off but don't want to mess with the upper trim being in the way again.
#19
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
Nevermind, I figured it out. I also figured out if I push on the connector behind those three gauges, one or more of them twitched. I tried wiggling individual wires and none individually made anything twitch. I think I need a new cluster. I did put bulb grease in the connector to make sure it was making good contact with the pins and that changed nothing. I think it'* something in the board.
#20
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
Well, it was fine today. Didn't act up at all. It'* been a week since it read properly for more than a few seconds. It'* been raining the last two days. Is there a ground somewhere that could get wet? Maybe the water is completing the ground?