Originally Posted by 88bonnsse
... and another wire with a round 1'' long plastic peice and a spring on it. i believe this is for the horn..
See my corrected previous post about the location of the relay.
You are correct about the contact under the center cover on the steering wheel. That spring loaded contact you have is for the horn (It transfers the horn circuit to the cover that holds the buttons..allowing the steering wheel to turn without winding up a coil of wire.) Touch the contact to any metal part of the steering column and the horn will go off.
So, now you have to test out the problem. run the steering wheel from lock to lock and see if the horn goes off on it'* own. You can pull the horn relay and start testing continuity on that wire and ground...it should remain an open circuit if it is good. If you see continuity while moving the steering wheel, then the short is in the steering column.
If the steering column wire checks out and works properly, then you have to start working with the other circuit that runs from the relay contacts to the horn itself.
The reason the circuit is split like this instead of one wire from the button on the steering wheel to the horn is due to the current draw of the horns. Typically they draw about 5 amps, but can draw as high as 20 amps if the coil in them shorts out. The button only has to provide a ground to close the circuit on the relay'* coil. The relay'* contacts then provides the 12vdc which drives the horn'* coil. The ground return for the horn is the steel mounting bracket that hangs it on the fender support.