Speeking of Info Centers, mine just blinks out from time to time, checked all the wiring. Anybody else had this problem?

ken

Yes, that'* a very common problem on the 92-99 SSE/SSEi. Follow the techinfo procedure above to repair it.

Okay, if you're looking at a little wedge-base bulb that pulls out of its socket, you'll need to read that number to get the right replacement. If the burned-out one isn't legible, try looking at any similar ones nearby that are still working; one of those should have a legible number on it, and/or can be matched by the color of the little ceramic insulator blob inside the bulb that holds the filament supports apart.

The big backlighting bulbs are probably either 194 or 168; the smaller ones I couldn't say offhand. Unfortunately mine were all working when I rebuilt my gauge cluster so I didn't pay a whole lot of attention to them (except to notice that the ABS/Traction Off light sockets were pretty toasted; the previous owner was probably driving around a lot with the warning lights blazing away and no functional ABS. )

Any well-stocked store will have those bulbs: Wal-Mart, Meijer, AutoZone, etc.

Could this be the cause of my not so fully functional oil PSI gage?? It likes to max out at higher that idel RPMS

That could be a problem with the sender or the instrument panel.

Are you saying "higher-than-ideal RPMs" above? It _should_ go up if you're revving the engine, especially when it'* less than fully warm. I'm not seeing an obvious problem in what you're describing; has something changed recently, or...? More detail needed here, I think...

well i picked up the bulb that the dealer thinks might work today and installed it but it still didnt work, which may open up a whole new can of worms that i dont feel like opening so im not gunna worry about it, its no big deal to me anyway, and its really not worth the time or money

True, but I don't think you're all that far away from successfully diagnosing the problem.

1) What number of bulb did the dealer give you?
2) Can you test it with a meter (i.e. continuity test -- check the resistance through the bulb) to make sure it'* good?
3) Can you test the old bulb the same way?

If the bulbs are good, you've not getting a signal to the SES light, and yes, that might be another can of worms...

well the dealer isnt even sure its the right bulb, on top of that they've changed the bulbs and the numbers on the back of them since the car is made, on top of that the gauge cluster is back in there and i probly wont take it out again for a long time

Not exactly; the numbers on the bulbs are standard interchange numbers. That is, they're bulb industry standard numbers, not assigned by GM, and would not change; e.g. an 1157 bulb will always be a dual-filament tail/brake bulb, no matter who installs it on what year of car. The little wedge-base bulbs used in the gauge cluster are 168 and/or 194 for general backlighting (I forget which exactly; there'* about four of them), and smaller ones lighting up individual warnings _might_ be some bulb numbers like 37 or, um, 74? (both similar to a 194 in shape but no more than half its diameter) They might be even smaller than that; some replaceable automotive bulbs are so tiniy that they come in their own little plastic socket to simplify handling them.

Yup, I know what you mean. In fact I may be pulling mine out again soon, because in some bitter cold weather the other day I caught the DIC blinking out on me for a few seconds as the car was warming up inside, so it looks like it'* going to be time for another rebuild soon. When I do, I'll pay a lot more attention to the bulbs and which ones go where.