Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
How do I get the master switch apart to get to the contacts? Just pops out? I don't want to break anything else on this car.
You get the switch out with a small thin-blade screwdriver at the FRONT of the plate (the lock-button end), and just pry the plate up.
It is not beyond the realm of possibility that this is not electrical, although the window to fail is usually the most-used driver'* one.
When my driver'* window failed, all the electrical checked out worked fine, and the window motor worked fine. Put it all together and it would fail.
It turned out that the track seems to be binding. I loosened up the mounting bolts on the motor enough so that there was some slack.... 3 years later still no more window problems.
But check out the electrical first.
When you get the switch off, unplug it from the wiring.
I make a jumper out of a piece of copper wire, something like household electrical wiring which is about the right size to fit the holes in the switch plate nicely.
The following is from the 94 shop manual. Every attempt was made to insure accuracy, but I cannot accept responsibility for any errors or typos:
In the holes in the wiring plate:
Pin E should be ground and pin F should be HOT. Put a voltmeter across F to E to be sure you have +12 volts at F (key on).
If that checks out, then (key on, of course) a jumper from:
E (ground) to A... and F (hot) to B.... should drive the right front DOWN.
E (ground) to B... and F (Hot) to A... shoud drive the right front UP.
E (ground) to G... and F (hot) to H.... should drive the right rear DOWN.
E (ground) to H ... and F (Hot) to G... should drive the right front UP.
If jumpering the power directly like that, will drive the windows okay, then the problem is in your drivers switch.
The power does go through the switch at the individual window, so if the jumpered power still does NOT work, the problem MAY be the INDIVIDUAL switches. You can do the jumper trick there, too.... if you pull of the individual switch at the right hand window, and unplug it from the wires....
A will be Hot... check it out with a meter.. If you then jumper A (hot) into D, and jumper ground from somewhere into C, that should drive the window DOWN, and the other way around (A into C and ground into D) should drive the window UP.