Thanks for the link.

A faulty ignition switch (VATS wire problem) would not cause the car to stall. It would only prevent the car from being started, perhaps intermittently if the wire wasn't totally disconnected or broken. A faulty VATS module however could cause the car to stall once the engine is running. The module sends a Pulse Width Modulated signal to the PCM. If this signal is not present, the PCM will not provide injector pulses thus causing the engine to stall.

At this point I would suggesting installing the appropriate resistor to bypass the ignition key in order to test the module. Go to a local shop that installs remote starters and ask them for a "VATS pack". Many remote starters include a package of resistors, one for each of the 15 values. If the starter in installed in a vehicle that is not equipped with the VATS system, the resistors go unused. You should be able to get one at no charge if they're in a good mood.

If you determine that the the module is faulty, I may be able to find one in my parts bin from a 93 SE. I still have the keys (somewhere) so the resistor value is known.

Well if the wire was broken that is in the ignition wouldnt the vats module cause the car to stall ? It wouldnt be able to read the value correctly. Now it just doesnt even turn over or anything. Which makes it sound like its probably the vats module because doesn't it enable the starter relay?

I just talked to the mechanic again and what we thought is true and he admitted it... he has NFC whats going on. So basically its me troubleshooting the thing now and so I asked him what ohm value the key is reading and he says 480... well if you look at the diagram up there kindly supplied by randman you will see that 480 isn't an acceptable value. So right now he is checking to see what ohm value the old key has to see if there is a difference. If there is.... im a flip my lid.

If the wire was broken, the car wouldn't crank. No crank, no start therefore no stall. If the car cranks and runs for like 3 seconds and then stalls, that sounds like a missing PWM signal. The VATS module controls two things at the same time: Start enable relay and PWM signal for fuel delivery. This actually helps with troubleshooting cause if the car fails to crank and you can not hear the fuel pump prime, the VATS is the most likely problem. But, if one or the other is working as it should then VATS is not a suspect.

Definately measure the old key and obtain the resistance. Hit up the shops for that VATS pack. If you run into trouble, I can probably get one from a buddy that runs an audio shop. Heck... I just might have one floating around here. Bypass the system by soldering/connecting the resistor to the correct wires so we can take it from there.

Back in July/Aug there was a club meet and we were working in the garage on a project also. Both cars suffered from VATS problems. The result at the club meet up, was the car was stranded at a bar. Once they located the proper wires they used test leads with clips on both ends to clip to the resistors... you could probably do this temporarily to get the car out of the shop of the mechanic with no clue.

oh boy how i remember that night....but with that setup were were able to move the members car....

It wouldn't start or run for more than 3-5 seconds. Pushing doesn't count. Let'* get back on topic.

My point is if you can not get a good value from either key you can try resistors via jumper connections and clip them in. it'* been proven to work.

Okay get this... doesnt make any ******* sense whatsoever... I have a new key made for my car.... with the ohms reading at 480... works about 3 times... doesn't start after that. I told the mechanic that the resistance is wrong... he got another key cut with the correct resistance of 599 ohms which he says was on my original key. The new key was like 602 he says and it still didn't work. This completely perplexes me based on that chart thats above by randman. Because obviously not even my original key feel within the acceptable range of values... so wtf?

The mechanic just told me that he is going to send a fake okay signal to my ECM to get it running... wtf isnt that a little out of capabilities of the normal independent shop?

And why would that original key work for a few times with no security light on and then not if the values were that much off?

Well I think he got one of those bypass vats modules and is bypassing it right now and it just going to ask for the cost of the part... which isn't to bad... although I still think it has something to do with the key... at this point I really don't care as long as i get this freaking car back in time to go to my interview at medical school.

This seems that the contacts in the ignition cylinder were not making contact at all times with the key.