A few things about myself: I do not know a lot about automobiles, so I apologize if I do not communicate with automotive efficiency. I have never posted to this or any other forum, so I apologize if I do not follow proper etiquette or post something in the wrong place, etc.

On to the problem: I have a stock 2000 Bonneville SLE. It has manifested many of the issues common to its reputation. I recently noted soaking wet floor pans with loss of secondary accessories at all doors except the driver'*. Using the advice found on this forum, I have been able to clear and reconnect the sunroof drains and restore operation to all door accessories by fixing the connection under the driver'* seat. (Many thanks to the participants and moderators which make this sort of education possible.)

While working in the driver floor pan, I came across an electrical junction which connected six white wires and three yellow wires separately (but in the same harness). I fused the 6 white wires together and then fused the 3 yellow wires together (as this appeared to be the function of the junction) and completely removed the heavily corroded and highly oxidized junction.

I reassembled the interior. Now the car will not start, the horn does not work and the headlights do not work. I am assuming that this malfunction is somehow related to the antitheft system. I am also assuming that it must have something to do with the aforementioned wiring harness which I modified. But I am not certain. Prior to performing this work, I did not have any ignition problems at all.

When I insert the key and try to crank the engine, nothing happens. I can hear a relay ticking in the rear under seat fuse box. The driver display module indicates recognition of the key by displaying: "Driver 2" in the display. If I attempt to crank the engine and then leave the key in the 'ON' position, the 'Security' indicator will stay lit solid for 3-5 seconds and then turn off. (The DDM also says: 'Recalibrate Compass' , if it matters somehow?)

I have inspected the fuses; removed the fuse boxes and checked incoming wires and grounds; I have removed the dash covers to make sure I did not disturb any connections while replacing them; I have locked and unlocked the vehicle using the key fob; I have manually unlocked the doors using the key; I have disconnected the battery for 30 minutes and touched the cables together; I have inspected the battery cables and body ground; I have tried the 30 minute Passkey3 relearn procedure at least 5 times; I have removed the driver'* seat and carpet and inspected the new connections. None of these attempted remedies have changed the status of the problem.

The only thing I noticed which changed anything was the removal of the Ignition mini-fuse from the engine fuse box. I simply removed and inspected the fuse and then reinserted it in its place. Prior to doing this, all the dash gauges would reset themselves every time I attempted to crank the engine. Afterward, the dash does not reset, but the ignition, horn and headlights still did not respond. (Also, I believe the dome lights are not working either.) I personally did not assign this development any significant value since it didn't help with the real issue at hand.

Hopefully, this isn't too lengthy. I imagine that providing as much information as possible up front might help to eliminate questions anyone may have.
One final personal item which I hesitate to mention is that I inherited this car from my son who passed away in active duty service with the US Army. I do not mention this for attention or sympathy for myself. To the contrary, I only mention it is a nice reminder to all of the folks that participate on this forum. I could take this car to a garage and let them work it over, but I have found a lot of joy and peace and pride in doing this work with my own hands. It keeps me connected to a memory I do not wish to lose. And as I mentioned earlier, having the knowledge and confidence to take on these projects is a product of the guys and gals that get together here to help out complete strangers. In other words, I'm thankful for what goes on here, because sometimes it'* about more than just fixing the car.

Matt.L 2000 Bonneville SLE

if its pk3 it should start and stall after a few seconds. it seems more like a loose fuse or loose or bad relay

dont forget to check the simple stuff... i replaced the ignition harness, and the ign cylinder on my mothers century before i thought to do what most mechanics would check first, the starter. for some reason on these gms they tend to either work perfect or not at all. she had driven to the doctor, came out and it wouldn't crank. just the relay click you are experiencing. this still wouldn't explain the headlights. but hopefully the 2 problems aren't connected. best of luck!

Thank you both for your responses. I will check these things over. If I can determine the solution I will post it here as well for future reference.

I thought I would follow up on this problem. After a lot of part time troubleshooting and headscratching in many different electrical areas, it turns out that all I needed to do was tighten the bolts in the engine compartment fuse box. When I first started troubleshooting the power window/door lock issues, I removed the bolts and cover (which says 'remove and discard'), but I never retightened those bolts. The bolts must function as some sort of ground for the fuse box which accounted for all sorts of weird electrical issues. Now, she starts right up. Hopefully we're back in business!

thanks for the update