Why do you think the batteries are ruined? You should be able to charge them up & be good to go. If for some reason they are ruined they should be replaced under warranty.

You can easily check how much of a drain the electrical system is putting on the battery. Just set a mutimeter up for the 10 amp DC range. Connect the meter between the negative cable & negative battery terminal. The meter should show a little over 1 amp then drop down to less than .05 amps when the PCM goes into sleep mode. I expect you're going to get a much higher reading since it'* draining the battery over night. This test should be done with a charged battery, no keys in the ignition & all doors closed.

If it is drawing too many amps then you can reconnect the battery, pull a fuse & then connect the meter to the contacts for the fuse. Keep checking fuses until you find the faulty circuit.

You're right about the batteries being covered under warranty, but that'* not really my main concern yet. I find it very strange that there was never a discharging issue with the battery in this car until I started the diagnostics. All I have basically done so far is to remove the completely corroded ground bus on the drivers side (joined all 7 wires from the ground bus together in a marr connector with dielectric grease & tape), inspected & cleaned the passenger side bus (hardly any corrosion). Thats about when the blower motor started acting up, running on high with no key. As Bob has pointed out, the drivers side bus doesn't share any connections with the blower, so that means a new problem was created. To eliminate the blower draining the battery, I removed the blower motor module, and ordered a new one. So as it stands now, whatever is the huge drain on the battery, isn't the blower (yet it would be part of it if it were connected). All the additional electrical problems seem to stem from work that I did on the drivers side bus.... I triple checked to make sure that none of the seven wires I loomed together were actually a hot lead.... Plus, the installation of a brand new Mall module did nothing, which also shows that the pre-existing problem was not module related. At least by replacing the mall & heater module, I can definately rule them out as a cause. I don't want to get in the position where this electical short has the potential to damage either of the new modules. So, like you said, it is time for the process of elimination....

I haven't had much time to do to much more research, but I did spend some time last night looking at the wiring diagram and diagnostics, but funfortunately for the passenger side bus. I am not sure why replacing the original bus with a different connector would cause an issue, unless a relay or fuse got zapped in the process, but I suppose it is something to keep in mind. Do you still have the original driver'* side ground bus? Can it be cleaned and put back? Tonight, I will get you a list of the items connected to the driver'* side ground bus and the pin-outs, and then we can examine the fuses and relays on those circuits, and hopefully identify what may be drawing current.

The driver'* side ground bus was way too far gone to salvage. Most of the clips were fused to what was left of the bar..... No option but to scrap it out....

The diagram has a couple of small confusing, components (like the drivers LH door switch shown twice), but here is what is conencted to the driver'* side bus:

A - Ground
B - Seats
C - Driver'* side door light
D - ELC
E - Driver'* side door switches
F - Passenger side door lock cylinder
G - Driver'* side fog lamp
H - Driver'* side front side marker lamp
I - (not shown, so I assume it is empty)
J - Passenger side door switches

Bruce, just a thought, but I am wondering if your "Retained Accessory Power" feature (keeps power to radio/windows operational after shutting the car off) is staying on past the 10 minute shut-down time. Does the radio stay on or are power windows operational after you open and close the driver'* door?

Also, I noticed in the RAP section that the RFA and MALL communicate to the RAP relay. When the battery was draining, did you have the MALL and RFA connected? If not, then connect the MALL and RFA connectors to the modules (I think leaving them "unmounted" is OK) to see if that changes anything. We probably need them connected for testing anyways because I want to make sure that things are reporting correctly and ensure that we don't have bad test results because one or both modules are not connected.

I ran a seperate heavy ground wire from the neg battery terminal to each of the ground buses, no difference. I decided to check all the maxi fuses in the firewall mounted fuse box. All have +12.7 volts at both pegs, with the car off. Currently, both the rfa & mall module, are unmounted, but connected. The heater control module has been removed. Even with it removed, there is still a huge power draw somewhere, even though it was initially thought that the running blower motor was the cause, it was obviously only part of the problem, because the blower ain't running, and the battery is draining.... Your other question: no the windows & radio do not keep running after the door has been opened & closed. That'* one positive sign.

Try unplugging the RFA module. Did you measure the battery drain with a multimeter?

I decided that since the heater control module was already removed, I would test the plugs that connect to it. The smaller plug with the single wire shows +12.2 volts, and the larger three wire plug shows .2 v at each pin. The key is not in the ignition, so there should not be positive power supplying the blower motor???!!!. Ted, where am I to measure the battery drain, and with the meter set on what?

The meter needs to be on the 10 amp or higher range. Disconnect the negative battery cable & connect one meter lead to the neg bat terminal & the other lead to the neg cable. I should warn you that if it'* drawing more than 10 amps you could damage the meter if the meter isn't fused. Most seem to be fused.

My digital multimeter has a setting category for DCmA (2/20/200), assuming this is milli amps and not amps.....