Not too worried about under the seats just yet. Once you've checked your meter, let me know. Here'* the (tentative) plan...

I want to see if we can get your park lights and/or signals working first. I'm not positive as yet, but your headlights might be completely seperate problem. It may be helpful if we can rule some things out.

If you have replaced any bulbs lately, it'* possible there is one that is causing a problem. Have you put in any signal or marker lights lately?

Do you carry anthing in your trunk that move around? The other check I'd like you to make is to take the liner out of your trunk and look at the wiring harnesses that go to the rear tail lights. There has been at least one other member who had a problem with wiring in this area, apparently due to shifting of cargo dislodging a connector.

Check this out, DON'T put your trunk liner back yet, even if things look good. There is something else I'll want you to do when this is done.

*** You will need to get some spare fuses of the correct amperage for your turn/hazard light circuit. Please make sure you have some handy ***

I haven't replaced any of my bulbs for awhile...My blinker bulbs haven't been touch for maybe close to a year now?

And yes I have a 12" sub box in the back of my trunk that moves around...Also I have taking off my tai lights a little bit ago for tinting them..

I'll strip everything out of my trunk to see if wire harness is messed up..

Test your meter by setting it to the 50 volt range in DC. The dial should be set to about the 8 o'clock position. Measure across the battery and make sure the needle moves approximately 1/3 of the way towards the right.



Is that how I should check if it works?

Yes, and to check the ohm meter side, place the dial to the R x 10 setting. Short the two leads together and the needles should deflect all the way across the scale.

It'* very important NOT to measure voltage on while the dial is set to the 'R' ranges or you may blow and internal fuse in the meter, or cause meter damage.

Well I had my car at my dads friend auto shop this week while I was out in Cali to fix it up and thank god he found it!

The headlights had a fuse and something else wrong with it as well as a bulb...Werid cause bulb looked perfectly fine.

Blinkers had a ground wire under my car that was basically almost gone so he had to rewire a new ground wire and all...

Total hrs spent on the car 6hrs :(

Hoping he gives me a HUGE discount like normally!

I'm glad you've got the problem resolved. Electrical problems can be difficult to troubleshoot and sometimes very time consuming. Unlike some repairs (water pump, brakes, etc) shops almost always charge actual hours for this type of work and usually make no guarantee of fixing the problem.

Your situation is an example of why I always measure a bulb if it doesn't work but looks okay. The problem sometimes isn't with the filament.

I do want to say thank you alot ddalder! You have helped me out alot not only with this issue but others! You know what your talking about 100%

Like you said it is time consuming and my time was running out due to the vacation I had. I did find out though my meter, dead. So I will need a new one, do you recommend any?

Also with the bulb thing, is it true if you touch the bulb like the glass part the bulb will not work? Autozone told me that and for some reason I think its wrong but heck I might be!

Thanks for the compliment Again, it'* nice that everything has worked out for you.

Everyone has individual preferences for test equipment. Personally, I have a Fluke multimeter. I've had if for many years and used it extensively during my years in the service industry. What you select really depends on what you need it for. In most cases, if it is for basic automotive or home troubleshooting and average $20-$40 meter from your local store will do the trick. I like analog meters for some applications and digital meters for others. For most applications, the digital multimeter is easier to use. Some are auto ranging which can also simplify things. I wouldn't spend too much if you only plan on using it occasionally. Check out the owners manual. These are easily damaged if you measure voltage or current while it is set to a resistance scale.

As for handling of bulbs, this depends on the type. You should never handle a halogen bulb with bare fingers. Oil from your skin can be transferred to the glass. These run extremely hot and the oil can ultimately cause a failure. Halogen bulbs are under pressure whereas regular incadescent bulbs have a vacuum inside. There is a greater risk of projectile glass particles if a halogen bulb bursts. Incandescent bulbs such as marker, signal, stop and reverse lights are not a concern when it comes to contact with your hands.