Cam sensor harness fried.
#1
Cam sensor harness fried.
This one is driving me up a wall. I fill up, drive for 16 miles, come to a stop, when I take off the car runs like **** under load. I have tried everything. I replaced the fuel filter first. Then checked fuel pressure (41 lbs) and it checked out. Replaced the wires. Cleaned the coil pack grounds. Changed the oil. Checked the fuel injectors. And it still runs like crap.
I should mention that it starts great. And it can be driven as long as I do not go past 0 on the boost gauge.
I pulled the plugs and they are all fuel fouled.
That brings me to the question. While I was running the new wires I found a small coolant leak from the pump. What a pain in the *** to replace. Once I got the water pump off I started to clean the harnesses to the Cam and Crank sensors. I found the three wires going to the cam sensor melted together and exposed in some places allowing them to rub together.
I know this will be a shopping list but, could this be the cause of all my problems or just the start.
Pics to follow tomorrow.
I should mention that it starts great. And it can be driven as long as I do not go past 0 on the boost gauge.
I pulled the plugs and they are all fuel fouled.
That brings me to the question. While I was running the new wires I found a small coolant leak from the pump. What a pain in the *** to replace. Once I got the water pump off I started to clean the harnesses to the Cam and Crank sensors. I found the three wires going to the cam sensor melted together and exposed in some places allowing them to rub together.
I know this will be a shopping list but, could this be the cause of all my problems or just the start.
Pics to follow tomorrow.
#3
Fixed all the harnesses. Still stumbling under load. Starts great and idles perfect. Car can be driven if I use a light foot. Anything into boost or load it stumbles all over itself.
Now I have DTC 17 set. I have 5 volts engine off, 3 volts running. Now the GM shop manual says bad PCM. What does everyone think?
Now I have DTC 17 set. I have 5 volts engine off, 3 volts running. Now the GM shop manual says bad PCM. What does everyone think?
#5
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Spark Reference Circuit.
Code sets when: RPM below 1200 and PCM sees 150 fuel reference pulses and no spark reference.
Diagnostics point to checking for 5v out of the ICM w/ engine off, key on.
Possible replacements are ICM, PCM and bad wiring, with most outcomes pointing to bad wiring.
What I don't understand is why it has you checking for the voltage at the PCM end. If it'* an output from the ICM I'd check voltage at the ICM to rule out the wiring.
But either way I wouldn't replace the PCM right now. Using his values and going through the chart it points to poor connection at GD6 OR faulty PCM. Check the resistance of CKT647 from ICM terminal C to PCM terminal GD6. This is a ~six foot wire passing through the ignition harness. You've got three places for bad connections and it'* right next to those wires you just replaced.
Code sets when: RPM below 1200 and PCM sees 150 fuel reference pulses and no spark reference.
Diagnostics point to checking for 5v out of the ICM w/ engine off, key on.
Possible replacements are ICM, PCM and bad wiring, with most outcomes pointing to bad wiring.
What I don't understand is why it has you checking for the voltage at the PCM end. If it'* an output from the ICM I'd check voltage at the ICM to rule out the wiring.
But either way I wouldn't replace the PCM right now. Using his values and going through the chart it points to poor connection at GD6 OR faulty PCM. Check the resistance of CKT647 from ICM terminal C to PCM terminal GD6. This is a ~six foot wire passing through the ignition harness. You've got three places for bad connections and it'* right next to those wires you just replaced.
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