Here'* some diode carnage:
It has a beefier diode in now, seems to be functioning just fine so far. Not sure what blew this one or when. It may have happened while I was playing with the relay.
Which brings me to the next item, I now have my high beams relayed and everything is wired in the same manner as the second diagram. Seems to be brighter, but I'll have to wait until night to be able to tell for sure.
Now, here'* the problems...
To get the most out of the relay, I stopped using the factory grounds for the high beam bulbs and connected it to the ground for the relay, all of which was constructed with 10 gauge wire. This will get the most available light out of them. However, the DRLs, perimeter lighting, and anything else that utilizes the high beams on a dim setting is no longer functional. This is because according to my FSMs, the dim high beam mode is activated by the lamp control module sending a current through to the GROUND wire of the driver'* side headlamp, which then runs through the power wire over to the passenger headlamp and grounds out on it'* ground wire. Interesting concept, but makes sense. With the lamps in series and a 12 volt current, the voltage to each lamp is cut in half and the lamps are dimmer.
Anyway, utilizing a high beam relay to it'* fullest extent will cause you to lose this feature. The other alternative is to use the factory grounds for the headlamps while connecting the power to the relay. I don't know how negatively this will affect performance, but it will trigger the low beam relay and the low beams will come on anytime the highs are on, whether they are dim or not. This may not be a concern for you, but it is for me as this is harmful to HIDs.
If you do choose to disable the dim high beam modes altogether, you can use the ground on the driver'* side as a power wire for something else if you like, so that something lights up when you hit the remote in the daytime, or as DRLs. Just remember that it is a full 12V current when the DRLs or perimeter lighting is triggered, so you will need to take that into account.
Or, if you don't feel like bothering with any of this mess, you can always just wire it up how it is in the first diagram. It'll work just fine.
Rockstar, the same concept could definitely be applied to the fogs as well, it would just require another diode and a relay for them. The only possible issue is that you would not be able to turn off your fogs if the highs were on, if that is a concern for you.
Interesting point that you bring up, I believe that any relay on the high beam side would eliminate the need for a diode, but for testing and optimal output purposes I am retaining the diode for the moment. With high and low beam relays (DRL ground disconnected) a jumper wire could be utilized directly from the output of the high beam relay over to the input switch for the low beams. Would keep them on with the highs but there wouldn't be any bleed back when the lows are on.