Hey! I have an Autopage 850lcd shipped to me as i write. i was told i need a trunk release module, and also a GM pass lock module. can you confirm this please? I have a 92 SE with the little black chip in the key. Then, can i get any brand of those two modules? like DEI, or even some off brand from AutoZone?

I have a Haynes manual- will the wire diagram in that be sufficient? Any internet sites that would have the diagram? You guys are the wealth of knowledge, so i'm sure you know of a site.

additionally, a friends dad is an electrical engineer- wicked smart with this stuff. I found

http://www.designtech-intl.com/Conte...04/note113.pdf

info about bypassing it without the module- or so it seems. Do i have the Pass Lock, or the VATS?- which would be this..

http://www.designtech-intl.com/Conte...04/note237.pdf

Thanks,

jeff

I'm not sure what the "trunk release module" would be as it seems to be an Autopage term rather than a GM term, but generally speaking, your aftermarket thingie will need to provide a 12-volt positive pulse in the car'* trunk-release circuit, usually by tapping into the wire leading to the trunk lid from the pushbutton in your driver'* door.

This may or may not require a relay, depending on how the aftermarket box generates its signal: If it puts out a 12-volt positive pulse, you may be able to connect its output wire directly to your trunk-release wire. If it puts out a negative pulse, you will need a relay which, when grounded by this negative pulse, will deliver a separate 12-volt _positive_ pulse (e.g. a separate wire coming from an accessory terminal on your fusebox) to the trunk release to pop the lid.

As for VATS vs. PASSLock, I'm pretty sure you have the VATS system. Rather than muck around with measuring the resistance of the chip in your key, you can stop by someplace like the key duplicating department at Ace Hardware, or a locksmith, and have them check the key with a VATS Interrogator, which basically identifies which of the 15 different resistance values you have in your key. You can then match that number to a table of resistances published in various places, such as Page 4 of the BulldogSecurity Universal Bypass installation instructions (see the _fifth_ page of this file for the listing: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/pdf/Model781.pdf ).

At the risk of tooting my own horn, you might want to find my series of posts under the Subject lines of "Dashboard Diary" (Search for "Dashboard AND Diary AND Chapter"; I think there were about 6 chapters altogether) and read along. Also check out the discussion under http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...pic.php?t=7541

Sounds good. You're going to be doing some disassembly to install the components so patience is a virtue.

See above. I think your general level of headaches will be less if you buy the necessary adaptors and whatnot from the same company that sells the main kit, once you figure out exactly what you're going to need. i.e. Read the instructions carefully to determine which model-year ranges are applicable to your car.

P.*...

On second thought, do you _need_ to worry about the VATS if you're just installing an alarm? VATS only comes into play when you're starting the car. Is this aftermarket installation including a remote starter, or just an alarm?

Thanks for the help!! I will look into the links you provided. Yes, there will be remote start added as well.

Thanks again!

jeff

You're welcome... and like we tell everybody: do _not_ be in a hurry to install this; it is going to take you a while. Working nonstop with no snags, it'll be a day. Working at a more sane rate, I would take a weekend to do things properly. It is going to be a challenging job to do this yourself, so don't assign yourself an immovable deadline by which time you absolutely have to have it finished.