Keyless Entry / All things RAC (BCM)
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Keyless Entry / All things RAC (BCM)
I haven't seen many solutions to my problem so I'm posting what I found on my 93 SSE. Symptoms: The keyless entry quit on both transmitters, radio shuts off when key is off, no extended dome lights, key only unlocks the door you are unlocking instead of everything.
Diag: Test both xmitters, if the other works ok - bad batteries or xmitter. If both fail, check RAC connections for corrosion. If ok, replace RAC.
Soln: R&R RAC, connect scan tool to program keyless transmitters to new RAC.
Of course it'* never as easy as the manual says. Have you been under the dash on the pass side? I ran into issues when trying to order the new part. Eventually, I opted to order the correct one - luckily. 25646511 is the part I ordered.
By the way here'* another gotcha. Only the shop manual refers to the RAC as a RAC. You talk to a dealer and you better say BCM or Body Control (ler) (Module)
If you haven't seen the sticky note on keyless - read it and add to it.
Both the new module and old module have the same FCC ID'* as well as both transmitters. Here'* that info
25615095 Orig RAC ABO0303R 218K1127
25646511 New RAC ABO0303R 218K1127
25602667... XMIT 1 ABO0303T 218K1033
25602667... XMIT 2 ABO0303T 218K1033
(R for receive T for transmit)
GM also listed a 25646510 for my year but according to the last 8 of the VIN, I needed the other one. I found this out after I opted not to order it since it was a lower number. (whew). I was also afraid I was going to need new fob'* with the new part, but the FCC ID matches so I think I'm safe.
***Update 7/10 Went to another dealer to get a 2nd opinion on my programming issue. I tried per the tech instructions last night but it didn't work. I talked to a tech and he said the key had to be on (not sure if this is correct or not) during programming. I get programming mode confirmation lock and unlock, but nothing happens when I push a transmitter button. He also said to try disconnecting the battery completely and touch the pos and neg cables together to rid the electrical system of any residual charge. I tried that also, and it still doesn't work. Anyone know what might be causing this? It'll probably be something simple that I'm not doing, but the tech said I was doing everything right and it should have worked.
Diag: Test both xmitters, if the other works ok - bad batteries or xmitter. If both fail, check RAC connections for corrosion. If ok, replace RAC.
Soln: R&R RAC, connect scan tool to program keyless transmitters to new RAC.
Of course it'* never as easy as the manual says. Have you been under the dash on the pass side? I ran into issues when trying to order the new part. Eventually, I opted to order the correct one - luckily. 25646511 is the part I ordered.
By the way here'* another gotcha. Only the shop manual refers to the RAC as a RAC. You talk to a dealer and you better say BCM or Body Control (ler) (Module)
If you haven't seen the sticky note on keyless - read it and add to it.
Both the new module and old module have the same FCC ID'* as well as both transmitters. Here'* that info
25615095 Orig RAC ABO0303R 218K1127
25646511 New RAC ABO0303R 218K1127
25602667... XMIT 1 ABO0303T 218K1033
25602667... XMIT 2 ABO0303T 218K1033
(R for receive T for transmit)
GM also listed a 25646510 for my year but according to the last 8 of the VIN, I needed the other one. I found this out after I opted not to order it since it was a lower number. (whew). I was also afraid I was going to need new fob'* with the new part, but the FCC ID matches so I think I'm safe.
***Update 7/10 Went to another dealer to get a 2nd opinion on my programming issue. I tried per the tech instructions last night but it didn't work. I talked to a tech and he said the key had to be on (not sure if this is correct or not) during programming. I get programming mode confirmation lock and unlock, but nothing happens when I push a transmitter button. He also said to try disconnecting the battery completely and touch the pos and neg cables together to rid the electrical system of any residual charge. I tried that also, and it still doesn't work. Anyone know what might be causing this? It'll probably be something simple that I'm not doing, but the tech said I was doing everything right and it should have worked.
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Everything Electrical & Electronic
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10-14-2011 12:19 AM