I think it'* fried... The circuit is good, and all the wiring seems to be in order. It'* been used 3x on that circuit, off of a 15amp fuse, into a 10amp fuse to start it.

Today i hit it, and nothing, smell something funny, see smoke from the button, the safety light dies, and a fuse blows.

How much current can a TC button take? :?

like half amp... you're using a relay right?

Umm, relay?

It goes between the # 14 or 15 fuse (parking lights ) and the #1 fuse, ignition. I cross the 12v between the 2 and it starts.Well that'* the theory.

You were running your starter through one of the console buttons??? They ain't made for that kinda current!! They are set up to trigger a relay elsewhere that runs whatever...

I'd be willing to bet those switches are set for no more than 1 or 2 amps at most. Basically just enough to turn on the little lights.

Right on the money. You should have used the switch to make a relay that switches the power from the fuses.

It worked fine plenty of times, but yeah i understand what you're saying.

actually for your starter switch i think i would be best to get a 30amp switch

It'* still behind the stock relay, i'm not powering the starter through this switch....

Understood, but when the factory uses what appears to be a 10- or 12-gauge wire just for the momentary starter-crank output from the ignition switch (I'm referring to the light-yellow one), you gotta figure that there'* some serious current flowing in that wire for some reason. After all, there are some lighter (e.g. 14-gauge) wires also used in and around the ignition, but starter cranking is not one of them.