FIXED! Sudden Power drain
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FIXED! Sudden Power drain
Hi guys and girls,
My "New2me" 93 Bonneville ran fine for the two days I have had her so far.
Sunday, I detailed the engine bay ( phase 1)
"Greased Lightning " (tm) degreaser & water rinse.
Looks great so far. I started her while she was still wet,
and she lit up without problems, on the first revolution of the crank, as usual.
I let her run at idle, for approx 10 mins to fully dry out while I
cleaned the windows.then shut her off.
Then I went in the house, and about five hours later, realized
I must have left the keys in the car.
A check indicated that I did..... ........... with the ign in the "ON" position.
But with no lights, no accessories, no radio /tape player, left on.
I tried then to start her to check condition, and battery seemed......... .....
I left it overnight, and brought out the 12V booster battery, freshly charged.
Hooked it (Neg) to the front engine lift point, and (Pos) to the + on the battery,
after wire brushing the connection points.
She cranked over with what sounded like some sort of one second on-off switching
to the starter power circuit and the usual, (I guess....) beeping alarm sounds for low voltage
Left her, went to work, and tried again when I got home. No soap!
Still would not start.
Question is anyone have a similar problem they've solved?
Owners manual is of no help...
This is my daily driver now. and it'* a 4 mile walk to the train to get to work.
I'm not familiar with all this new computer controlled equipment, and hope I haven't ruined some electronic gizmo.....
CharlieBonn
My "New2me" 93 Bonneville ran fine for the two days I have had her so far.
Sunday, I detailed the engine bay ( phase 1)
"Greased Lightning " (tm) degreaser & water rinse.
Looks great so far. I started her while she was still wet,
and she lit up without problems, on the first revolution of the crank, as usual.
I let her run at idle, for approx 10 mins to fully dry out while I
cleaned the windows.then shut her off.
Then I went in the house, and about five hours later, realized
I must have left the keys in the car.
A check indicated that I did..... ........... with the ign in the "ON" position.
But with no lights, no accessories, no radio /tape player, left on.
I tried then to start her to check condition, and battery seemed......... .....
I left it overnight, and brought out the 12V booster battery, freshly charged.
Hooked it (Neg) to the front engine lift point, and (Pos) to the + on the battery,
after wire brushing the connection points.
She cranked over with what sounded like some sort of one second on-off switching
to the starter power circuit and the usual, (I guess....) beeping alarm sounds for low voltage
Left her, went to work, and tried again when I got home. No soap!
Still would not start.
Question is anyone have a similar problem they've solved?
Owners manual is of no help...
This is my daily driver now. and it'* a 4 mile walk to the train to get to work.
I'm not familiar with all this new computer controlled equipment, and hope I haven't ruined some electronic gizmo.....
CharlieBonn
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try a battery charger for a few hours not a booster, these cars need alot of power to get started and they throw fits when they dont have enough
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Originally Posted by DarkShadow
try a battery charger for a few hours not a booster, these cars need alot of power to get started and they throw fits when they dont have enough
I'll do that. and hope things go smoothly.
I still don't understand, why she ran down so quick.
But let'* see if she'll start again before worrying bout that...
CharlieBonn
#4
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True Car Nut
perhaps the battery is just fixing to give up. but i do agree with charging the battery fully. if she gives you no further trouble, forgive her and move on. good luck, im hoping for you
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Originally Posted by Charliebonn
Originally Posted by DarkShadow
try a battery charger for a few hours not a booster, these cars need alot of power to get started and they throw fits when they dont have enough
I'll do that. and hope things go smoothly.
I still don't understand, why she ran down so quick.
But let'* see if she'll start again before worrying bout that...
CharlieBonn
#6
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
The best way to charge a battery is to disconnect it from the car (elminating any draws) and use a 2amp trickle charger for at least 12 hours. A 10 amp charger can also be used and takes less time, but also does not put as solid of a charge into the battery.
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Fixed !! Re: Help! Sudden Power drain
Originally Posted by Charliebonn
Hi guys and girls,
A check indicated that I did..... ........... with the ign in the "ON" position.
But with no lights, no accessories, no radio /tape player, left on.
CharlieBonn
A check indicated that I did..... ........... with the ign in the "ON" position.
But with no lights, no accessories, no radio /tape player, left on.
CharlieBonn
I replaced the battery this morning..
Discovered that the "+" side terminal was so corroded that I had trouble removing it.
It must have developed an internal leak.
So I thoroughly cleaned the cables and installed the newer battery and the car
kicked over again..... ( as it has done, within the first rev of the crank).
How do you spell relief?? - - - - - NEW BATTERY!
Thanks also for the info on the "loads" while Key is "ON".
Here'* one for you guys...
#8
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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Glad to hear that fixed you up. You may also want to check the other connection ends for the cables. Frequently they corrode as well over time.
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'+' Terminal Corrosion:
If the battery cables that you hooked up to the new battery were corroded, or had a buildup on the end lug, SERIOUSLY consider replacing them. Acid from a cracked battery case can wick down the cables and reduce their performance.
This corrosive condition can lead to another breakdown in your charging system; which may require replacement of your alternator and/or another battery - in the not too distant future. If you are skeptical, check the resistance of the '+' cable.
In addition, some GM-design cables have a lead washer inside the terminal lug. This washer compresses each time the terminal lug is torqued down. After repeated installations, the washer will become thin enough that the lug will actually thread too far into the case - causing the case to crack. If it does not crack the case directly, it will cause enough stress to crack the case during times of excessive heat.
If the battery cables that you hooked up to the new battery were corroded, or had a buildup on the end lug, SERIOUSLY consider replacing them. Acid from a cracked battery case can wick down the cables and reduce their performance.
This corrosive condition can lead to another breakdown in your charging system; which may require replacement of your alternator and/or another battery - in the not too distant future. If you are skeptical, check the resistance of the '+' cable.
In addition, some GM-design cables have a lead washer inside the terminal lug. This washer compresses each time the terminal lug is torqued down. After repeated installations, the washer will become thin enough that the lug will actually thread too far into the case - causing the case to crack. If it does not crack the case directly, it will cause enough stress to crack the case during times of excessive heat.
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Originally Posted by MartyC
'+' Terminal Corrosion:
If the battery cables that you hooked up to the new battery were corroded, or had a buildup on the end lug, SERIOUSLY consider replacing them. Acid from a cracked battery case can wick down the cables and reduce their performance.
If the battery cables that you hooked up to the new battery were corroded, or had a buildup on the end lug, SERIOUSLY consider replacing them. Acid from a cracked battery case can wick down the cables and reduce their performance.
The corrosion, was ( luckily ) confined to the threads on the bolt that screws into the battery.
I will be changing the cable anyway....along with the washer, and bolt.
Cheap enough insurance....eh??
Just cause it doesn't show up now, doesn't mean that acid didn't leak into the cable under the insulation.
CharlieBonn
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