Not that I'm bitching, I wasn't sure if anyone else into the older cars was going to pay attention to this section. It doesn't hurt my feelings if the thread goes off topic. As long as the original question gets answered. Which it did.
The search feature turned up no relevant information to this subject. Six pages of fog lights, Silver Stars, and Angel Eyes were quite informative, just not what I was looking for. I found one thread that posed this question about later cars than mine, but it trailed off and no one provided a fix.
Brickboard .com has a FAQ section that has so far addressed almost all the maintenance issues I've run accross on my Volvo 240. This feature was added to reduce the redundant threads that cover the same or similar topics ad infinitum. It'* also much easier and quicker to use than a search engine. Just a suggestion.
Thanks for your attention to this matter.

The monitor should be monitoring amount used or resistance pulled. By powering that relay you might be pulling just enough extra to cause it to think they are out. Or it sees the lows on.

Try this..Disconnect 86 High beam wire from the relay. Turn the lights on and off to reset the lamp monitor. Now power 86 with a test lead from the postive side of the battery and see if the monitor acts up again. If it does, then it is seeing the low beams and you might need to install diodes in to the line where it reads them being on.

If not, then it'* the amount of power the relay is drawing and I would need to think further how you can power a relay or something w/o drawing enough power to upset the monitor. (probably a little circuit w/caps etc to up the voltage)

For those that don't have the lamp monitor. We hate your monitorless guts..

It'* kinda odd that the monitor is complaining about seeing voltage when it is used to detect an open circuit (burnt bulb). Bill has already covered the troubleshooting pretty well but there are other items that draw from the HI beam wire such as the fog light disable relay and the HI beam indicator in the cluster. Do you really think an additional 80ma draw for the new relay would cause the monitor to bitch? Or does it need to get used to the additional draw?

The diode seems like a good idea even if the voltage on the LO beam wire is not causing the problem. Didn't think of adding one before. The wiring would be a bit more difficult as the diode would need to be installed before the splice.

Ok, I did some testing today and no matter what I did the minute you try to get all four to light the lamp monitor thinks there'* a headlight bulb out :( ... As soon as you turn the high beems off (switch to lows) the monitor clears off. More help would be great... Like where I should try to put the diode?

Thanks guys for all your help!

My 95 manual is showing the splice close to the ALM which is mounted to the firewall in the interior of the car. It'* in the center and low. I think that I'd do some additional testing with the diode before installing it there. This would mean that you would have an additional connection right where you are currently tapped in.

This testing should only allow the passenger'* LO beam light light turn on when you switch to HI but it might save some time and effort over getting to the splice. You cut the LO beam wire where you are already tapped in (assuming you're working near the battery). Install the diode on the half that comes from the firewall with the stripe (negative) facing away from the firewall. Then connect the headlight half and the relay output after the diode. See diagram:



If the passenger'* LO beam turns on when you switch to HI and the monitor doesn't gripe then this should solve your problem. Then we can locate the splice and fix it for good.