SSEi - Project Restoration - DAY 3 - rust removal part 2 - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat
GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat

Go Back   GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat > GM Technical Discussion and Questions > Detailing & Appearance

Detailing & Appearance Discuss washing, waxing and detailing information as well as interior/exterior cosmetic modifications. This includes neons, body, cosmetic wheels, etc. Even under the hood detailing.

LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-07-2007, 12:18 PM   #31
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 173
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
HurstGN is on a distinguished road

I was using the metal prep on a block and cylinder heads. It converted the rust to a good clean surface and I never had a problem with the coatings on that engine. It got black, silver, and the bare aluminum coatings. I went the extra yard on prep on that one because I wasn't going to remove that motor ever again.

I've also never had problems when using on surfaces that were properly scraped and sanded. So I don't know if the prep is 100% necessary, but in the case of that engine, I didn't want some nook or crannie starting to rust again and lifting the coating because it wasn't sanded and prepped properly. Some items done without metal prep (radiator support, power steering box, a-arms, frame). All came out ok for me. I guess it'* a matter of how much you want to do.

I've topcoated according to the problems. But you want to make sure you do it within the curing time as directed. I never tried topcoating after a full cure, with the additional sanding an all.

I've never had a failure of POR-15 yet. I always followed directions (except for the gloves the first time) and always got good results. I believe taking time on the prep (degreasing properly, wire brushing, sanding, scraping) all are the key to allowing the product to do it'* job properly. Give it a proper surface and it'll work.

Dan McCann
2000 SSEi
HurstGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2007, 01:27 PM   #32
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,308
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
bonnie94ssei is on a distinguished road

So what I thought was correct, that POR-15 is a high-temp paint. Good to know.

I asked about the metal prep because when I was cleaning my subframe I got to bare metal after using only brake parts cleaner. I sanded with a 80 grit / 180 grit sandpaper to rough up the metal. It went on well, and so far it'* holding up just fine.

I have those few small areas of POR-15 that I need to cover up with my body color. I'm hoping sanding the POR-15 as if it were a primer coat and topcoating with the color will work out.
bonnie94ssei is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rust.... RUST?! Reid Detailing & Appearance 16 09-28-2012 07:30 PM
Custom restoration project blackwolfdarcon Lounge 15 03-02-2007 08:57 PM
Rust/Rust Holes/Oxydized Paint - HELP PLEASE!!!! wjcollier07 Detailing & Appearance 19 10-14-2006 12:06 AM
Electronic rust protection in lieu of rust ban( Is it true?) panda1956 1987-1991 6 09-27-2006 12:26 PM
Project Restoration.. BonneAlien General GM Chat 7 07-04-2005 03:48 PM

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:28 AM.