Some interior cleaning tips for carpet/seats
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Some interior cleaning tips for carpet/seats
I wanted to make a post for those who have some carpet stains and need some assistance in cleaning up the interior of their car.
Carpet: Before cleaning your carpet or floor mats, make sure to do a thorough job vaccuming your car. The last thing you want is a small bit of grease being scrubbed into your carpet. I have found that the best commercially available carpet cleaner for the bonneville (or any car I've worked on to date) is Advanced Formula Prosolve which is available allmost anywhere including grocery stores.
To start: You want to put the nozzle on "stream" and directly apply it to the stained or dirty area then turn the nozzle to "spray" and hit the surrounding area lightly. Give it a minute or two, and then, using a wet (with water) scrub brush (I prefer rubbermaid because it does not shred or leave pieces) start scrubbing the stained area in a back and fourth direction in the same way that the stain may have occurred. For example, go up and down for a stain that may have occurred when coffee drained down the center counsel. Once you have sufficiently scrubbed the area in the direction it occurred, rinse the scrub brush in the pail of water. Then, begin scrubbing in the opposite direction to the way the stain occurrred. This should solve your problem and take the stain out.
Next: re-vaccum the area you just cleaned preferrably using a wet/dry shop vac, if you don't have one, use a dry (clean) rag and attempt to dry the area without applying a significant amount of pressure and turn the rag to the dryest area possible. Once you have thoroughly vaccumed the area, allow it to air dry for a while. You should notice the stain is completely gone. If you do not, re-do the spray procedure....trust me, it will go away.
Seats: To do cloth seats you can use the same steps as above for the carpet, but please take it easy on the seats, you do not want to over soak the area, do a little at a time, other wise it can have an effect on the foam underneath. For leater seats, I personally prefer Meguiars Leather wipes. I generally use one wipe per seat doing the first run through lightly over the whole seat, and the second in a scrubbing circular motion.
Carpet: Before cleaning your carpet or floor mats, make sure to do a thorough job vaccuming your car. The last thing you want is a small bit of grease being scrubbed into your carpet. I have found that the best commercially available carpet cleaner for the bonneville (or any car I've worked on to date) is Advanced Formula Prosolve which is available allmost anywhere including grocery stores.
To start: You want to put the nozzle on "stream" and directly apply it to the stained or dirty area then turn the nozzle to "spray" and hit the surrounding area lightly. Give it a minute or two, and then, using a wet (with water) scrub brush (I prefer rubbermaid because it does not shred or leave pieces) start scrubbing the stained area in a back and fourth direction in the same way that the stain may have occurred. For example, go up and down for a stain that may have occurred when coffee drained down the center counsel. Once you have sufficiently scrubbed the area in the direction it occurred, rinse the scrub brush in the pail of water. Then, begin scrubbing in the opposite direction to the way the stain occurrred. This should solve your problem and take the stain out.
Next: re-vaccum the area you just cleaned preferrably using a wet/dry shop vac, if you don't have one, use a dry (clean) rag and attempt to dry the area without applying a significant amount of pressure and turn the rag to the dryest area possible. Once you have thoroughly vaccumed the area, allow it to air dry for a while. You should notice the stain is completely gone. If you do not, re-do the spray procedure....trust me, it will go away.
Seats: To do cloth seats you can use the same steps as above for the carpet, but please take it easy on the seats, you do not want to over soak the area, do a little at a time, other wise it can have an effect on the foam underneath. For leater seats, I personally prefer Meguiars Leather wipes. I generally use one wipe per seat doing the first run through lightly over the whole seat, and the second in a scrubbing circular motion.
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Carpet: remove from vehicle, spray down with simple green, power wash at self serve car wash with clear water. Drink beer while carpet drip dries.
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Go to a commercial cleaning supply store. Wear a t-shirt, beat-up shorts and sneakers. To keep the inside of your car pristine, (and remove any spots or stains on your home carpet), you will only need a few chemicals.
1 bottle of dry (sometimes called 'volitile") solvent
1 botte of POG. I first thought that POG stood for something like polyglycolgenzeene. It stands for paint, oil, and grease.
I bottle of 5% Acetic acid, if you have coffee, tea or cocacola spills.
1 bottle of water based, high PH cleaner. You could use Resolve if you want.
The key chemical is the dry solvent. Just a dab at a time on a cloth and rub the mark. It should come off on the towel. You can use it on carpets, fake leather seats, and for the black marks on doors from shoes and stuff. You do not have to extract the solvent.
For grease and asphalt marks on carpet use the POG the same way. ONLY the carpets though.
For the coffe etc stains, or dark gooey marks from putting your sweaty elbow on the seat seperator arm, or window, use the acetic acid. You can use it liberally.. Again, rub with the cloth.
Both the POG and acetic acid must be extracted. Liberally spray the area with the sissy waterbased cleaner to raise their PH. Then use a shop vac or car wash vac to extract the moisture from the areas you sprayed.
When you go up to the desk to pay , the guy will ask you if you have an account. Tell him No, but that you are the spot guy for XYZ Carpet service. You are just down in the area, and are working on a biyatch of a restore job, you are only half way done and you used up your chemicals. They will always ask you what system you use. You have a Butler truckmounted system. the system sends superheated water at 300 lbs psi through a line to the wand. also attached to the wand is a vaccum hose which is attached to the truck engine. he will sell you the stuff because it costs $8-10/ bottle and his markup is 100%.
1 bottle of dry (sometimes called 'volitile") solvent
1 botte of POG. I first thought that POG stood for something like polyglycolgenzeene. It stands for paint, oil, and grease.
I bottle of 5% Acetic acid, if you have coffee, tea or cocacola spills.
1 bottle of water based, high PH cleaner. You could use Resolve if you want.
The key chemical is the dry solvent. Just a dab at a time on a cloth and rub the mark. It should come off on the towel. You can use it on carpets, fake leather seats, and for the black marks on doors from shoes and stuff. You do not have to extract the solvent.
For grease and asphalt marks on carpet use the POG the same way. ONLY the carpets though.
For the coffe etc stains, or dark gooey marks from putting your sweaty elbow on the seat seperator arm, or window, use the acetic acid. You can use it liberally.. Again, rub with the cloth.
Both the POG and acetic acid must be extracted. Liberally spray the area with the sissy waterbased cleaner to raise their PH. Then use a shop vac or car wash vac to extract the moisture from the areas you sprayed.
When you go up to the desk to pay , the guy will ask you if you have an account. Tell him No, but that you are the spot guy for XYZ Carpet service. You are just down in the area, and are working on a biyatch of a restore job, you are only half way done and you used up your chemicals. They will always ask you what system you use. You have a Butler truckmounted system. the system sends superheated water at 300 lbs psi through a line to the wand. also attached to the wand is a vaccum hose which is attached to the truck engine. he will sell you the stuff because it costs $8-10/ bottle and his markup is 100%.
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