Originally Posted by 88bonnsse
sadly it is a can of spray (filler primer). its all i could find besides rustoleum metal primer.
any suggestions. i have no time to waste here or i will miss the half price dead line and be screwed..
please help me.. thanks
Ok, break out the phone book and find a shop that sells real automotive paint. (DuPont, BASF, etc, etc.) Worst case, you get one of the cheap airless sprayers to shoot the primer, thoug if you have an air compressor, an HVLP "touch-up" gun is all you would need. Using spray can paints, even primer, will kill you in the pocket book, and may also kill the final paint job. While you are there getting a good primer, pick up wet-dry paper and long sanding boards.
If you are going for a really nice paint job, you remove EVERYTHING from the exterior of the car that you can. Everything else gets masked off.
Lets say I wanted to do just the rear of my '90 Bonneville and not deviate from the stock white color. I would remove the tail lights, license plate & holder, bumper cover, badges, antenna, trunk gasket, and even the trunk locking hardware. The current paint would need to be cleaned to spotless with soap and water, followed by acetone...A LOT of Acetone, to remove all traces of grease, oil, and wax. It will also remove the adhesive from your pinstripes (See photo in signature..note, no pinstripes!...lots of fingernail and acetone time)
Next, attack the damage (see Wilwren'* hood repair photo) You feather out the paint around the damage, fix the actual damage itself, then fill and feather again. After all that is done, shoot a coat of primer on it and wait for it to cure. Come back and with a long board and sand paper, wet sand the area again...long strokes. You are leveling out the original paint, fillers and new primer. The primer will show you where your low spots are that still need work. Just keep repeating this till the entire area is smooth. (keep your bare hands off the work area, wear gloves, cause the oils in your hands will contaminate the surface of the primer and paint.) When you are satisfied that it'* as level as you can stand, it'* ready to go to the body shop for finish paint.
220 grit is really as fine as you need for the purposes of leveling the old paint/primer/filler. Since another coat is going on top, a rough 220 surface will give the new paint something to bite into. (We are talking about wet sanding here...where you keep the surface being sanded wet with water while you work...it washes away the debris being sanded off and lubricates the paper. You don't need a lot of pressure forcing the paper onto the surface, it will glide along taking paint off at a fairly aggressive rate.) Save the finer grits for sanding down the finished clear coats.
Prep work is 90% of the job. Shooting the actual paint that makes up the top coats is the easy part. You might even want to tackle that yourself too...by the time you get there, you'll be pretty good at running the HVLP gun from shooting all that primer
And really... the half price "deal" really isn't a deal at all. If you plan on getting rid of the car, then don't do anything and let them have at just shooting a new coat on it el-cheap. If you plan on keeping the car, then fix the bodywork the right way, and shoot a real coat of paint on it.