Low Oil Engine Pressure Light Impala LS 2000
#22
Retired
Over there? You mean down yonder in Venezuela? They probably do, but the chances of one having at least anything 3800 is remote.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
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danihound (04-18-2015)
#23
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Thread Starter
mike is right, there are scrapyards here but i really doubt they have anything impala related, the car is from my dad he got it imported from the US back in the days it could be imported.
i use other cars myself, but my dad love this car and dont want it to die, im going to install an oil pressure gauge i found a faria brand one.
i asked him and he told me they have been using shell semi synthetic 15w40 but the manual says this car should use 10w30, should i use 10w30 or keep with 15w40 and if i change to 10w30 is there any proccedure i should do?.
thanks for the help guys, haha i dont trust mechanics here, i usually ask you guys and a friend that works in a chevrolet dealer a help me.
i use other cars myself, but my dad love this car and dont want it to die, im going to install an oil pressure gauge i found a faria brand one.
i asked him and he told me they have been using shell semi synthetic 15w40 but the manual says this car should use 10w30, should i use 10w30 or keep with 15w40 and if i change to 10w30 is there any proccedure i should do?.
thanks for the help guys, haha i dont trust mechanics here, i usually ask you guys and a friend that works in a chevrolet dealer a help me.
#24
Retired
That seems a bit heavy for a 3800. Go with the 10-30 as specified. Just drain the oil and put it in.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#25
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Thread Starter
ok i will, yes i found that weird, the services at the gm or chevy dealer here use 10w30.
well is good i have checked.
well is good i have checked.
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Soft Ride (04-19-2015)
#26
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I noticed you mentioned the "gasket set" in the first post, if you are talking about eventually replacing the upper and lower manifold gaskets, let me know and I'll give you part numbers for what you want to get, stay away from the lower intake manifold gaskets in that victor reinz, and Fel-Pro set, they are nylon 6,6, you want the aluminum framed gaskets...
#27
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Thread Starter
thanks william E, which one should i buy?.
i ordered the oil pressure gauge, any instructions on how to install it?, i will not do it myself but i would like to know how you do the installation.
i bought this one:
i ordered the oil pressure gauge, any instructions on how to install it?, i will not do it myself but i would like to know how you do the installation.
i bought this one:
#28
Senior Member
True Car Nut
If I may first ask, why were you considering changing all of those gaskets?
If the LIM Gasket is still old Nylon/Plastic style then I can see changing it to be on the safe side, as eventually the old style will fail.
The other gaskets do not matter so much, but if you replace the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, go with Fel-Pro MS 98014 T
If you replace the LIM Gasket you may as well get the redesigned Upper Intake Manifold, it comes with the reduced diameter EGR Stove Pipe, which needs to replace the current one in the LIM.
You'd also want to get the Aluminum Coolant Elbows, all three are shown on the Amazon Page I linked you to.
I won't elaborate anymore on the LIM/UIM as this would be better placed in a thread of its own when the time comes that you are going to replace the UIM/LIM Gaskets..
As for the oil pressure sender you bought, I hope it comes with the tubing needed to get from the sender to the inside of your car.
I have not installed one, but it should be as easy as removing the sender in it now, screwing the new tubing/connector into where the old one was, then run the tubing safely through the firewall, and find somewhere inside the car to mount it.
Some get pillars modded to place them in, but that should not be totally necessary.
I would have just found somewhere to borrow a oil pressure tester, or tried to get a tester from somewhere local, I know Amazon has them, but I am not sure they deliver to Venezuela.
Here is one like I would have used, then if the pressure checked out I'd have just looked into replacing the wiring from the current sender to the PCM.
Did you ever remove the connectors on the PCM and check to see if any oil was present there?
The reason it was suggested is because some sensors can have the diaphragm fail, letting oil get into the wiring harness, where it wicks itself slowly down the harness.
On another note, hopefully your current oil pressure sender does not act as a fuel inertia shutoff, some have that to keep the car from starting if the car were to roll over, but I had trouble with mine starting when my oil pressure sender failed, the PCM did not see good pressure, and the majority of the time I could not get it to start, maybe it was a fluke though, I am not totally sure...
I was going to just get a brass Tee, and run both the old, and the mechanical pressure sender like you have, but I never got around to it.
If the LIM Gasket is still old Nylon/Plastic style then I can see changing it to be on the safe side, as eventually the old style will fail.
The other gaskets do not matter so much, but if you replace the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, go with Fel-Pro MS 98014 T
If you replace the LIM Gasket you may as well get the redesigned Upper Intake Manifold, it comes with the reduced diameter EGR Stove Pipe, which needs to replace the current one in the LIM.
You'd also want to get the Aluminum Coolant Elbows, all three are shown on the Amazon Page I linked you to.
I won't elaborate anymore on the LIM/UIM as this would be better placed in a thread of its own when the time comes that you are going to replace the UIM/LIM Gaskets..
As for the oil pressure sender you bought, I hope it comes with the tubing needed to get from the sender to the inside of your car.
I have not installed one, but it should be as easy as removing the sender in it now, screwing the new tubing/connector into where the old one was, then run the tubing safely through the firewall, and find somewhere inside the car to mount it.
Some get pillars modded to place them in, but that should not be totally necessary.
I would have just found somewhere to borrow a oil pressure tester, or tried to get a tester from somewhere local, I know Amazon has them, but I am not sure they deliver to Venezuela.
Here is one like I would have used, then if the pressure checked out I'd have just looked into replacing the wiring from the current sender to the PCM.
Amazon.com: Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-5550 Automatic Transmission and Engine Oil Pressure Gauge Kit: Automotive
Did you ever remove the connectors on the PCM and check to see if any oil was present there?
The reason it was suggested is because some sensors can have the diaphragm fail, letting oil get into the wiring harness, where it wicks itself slowly down the harness.
On another note, hopefully your current oil pressure sender does not act as a fuel inertia shutoff, some have that to keep the car from starting if the car were to roll over, but I had trouble with mine starting when my oil pressure sender failed, the PCM did not see good pressure, and the majority of the time I could not get it to start, maybe it was a fluke though, I am not totally sure...
I was going to just get a brass Tee, and run both the old, and the mechanical pressure sender like you have, but I never got around to it.
The following users liked this post:
Soft Ride (04-20-2015)
#29
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
Thread Starter
If I may first ask, why were you considering changing all of those gaskets?
If the LIM Gasket is still old Nylon/Plastic style then I can see changing it to be on the safe side, as eventually the old style will fail.
The other gaskets do not matter so much, but if you replace the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, go with Fel-Pro MS 98014 T
Amazon.com: Felpro MS 98014 T Intake Manifold Gasket: Automotive
If you replace the LIM Gasket you may as well get the redesigned Upper Intake Manifold, it comes with the reduced diameter EGR Stove Pipe, which needs to replace the current one in the LIM.
You'd also want to get the Aluminum Coolant Elbows, all three are shown on the Amazon Page I linked you to.
I won't elaborate anymore on the LIM/UIM as this would be better placed in a thread of its own when the time comes that you are going to replace the UIM/LIM Gaskets..
As for the oil pressure sender you bought, I hope it comes with the tubing needed to get from the sender to the inside of your car.
I have not installed one, but it should be as easy as removing the sender in it now, screwing the new tubing/connector into where the old one was, then run the tubing safely through the firewall, and find somewhere inside the car to mount it.
Some get pillars modded to place them in, but that should not be totally necessary.
I would have just found somewhere to borrow a oil pressure tester, or tried to get a tester from somewhere local, I know Amazon has them, but I am not sure they deliver to Venezuela.
Here is one like I would have used, then if the pressure checked out I'd have just looked into replacing the wiring from the current sender to the PCM.
Amazon.com: Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-5550 Automatic Transmission and Engine Oil Pressure Gauge Kit: Automotive
Did you ever remove the connectors on the PCM and check to see if any oil was present there?
The reason it was suggested is because some sensors can have the diaphragm fail, letting oil get into the wiring harness, where it wicks itself slowly down the harness.
On another note, hopefully your current oil pressure sender does not act as a fuel inertia shutoff, some have that to keep the car from starting if the car were to roll over, but I had trouble with mine starting when my oil pressure sender failed, the PCM did not see good pressure, and the majority of the time I could not get it to start, maybe it was a fluke though, I am not totally sure...
I was going to just get a brass Tee, and run both the old, and the mechanical pressure sender like you have, but I never got around to it.
If the LIM Gasket is still old Nylon/Plastic style then I can see changing it to be on the safe side, as eventually the old style will fail.
The other gaskets do not matter so much, but if you replace the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, go with Fel-Pro MS 98014 T
Amazon.com: Felpro MS 98014 T Intake Manifold Gasket: Automotive
If you replace the LIM Gasket you may as well get the redesigned Upper Intake Manifold, it comes with the reduced diameter EGR Stove Pipe, which needs to replace the current one in the LIM.
You'd also want to get the Aluminum Coolant Elbows, all three are shown on the Amazon Page I linked you to.
I won't elaborate anymore on the LIM/UIM as this would be better placed in a thread of its own when the time comes that you are going to replace the UIM/LIM Gaskets..
As for the oil pressure sender you bought, I hope it comes with the tubing needed to get from the sender to the inside of your car.
I have not installed one, but it should be as easy as removing the sender in it now, screwing the new tubing/connector into where the old one was, then run the tubing safely through the firewall, and find somewhere inside the car to mount it.
Some get pillars modded to place them in, but that should not be totally necessary.
I would have just found somewhere to borrow a oil pressure tester, or tried to get a tester from somewhere local, I know Amazon has them, but I am not sure they deliver to Venezuela.
Here is one like I would have used, then if the pressure checked out I'd have just looked into replacing the wiring from the current sender to the PCM.
Amazon.com: Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-5550 Automatic Transmission and Engine Oil Pressure Gauge Kit: Automotive
Did you ever remove the connectors on the PCM and check to see if any oil was present there?
The reason it was suggested is because some sensors can have the diaphragm fail, letting oil get into the wiring harness, where it wicks itself slowly down the harness.
On another note, hopefully your current oil pressure sender does not act as a fuel inertia shutoff, some have that to keep the car from starting if the car were to roll over, but I had trouble with mine starting when my oil pressure sender failed, the PCM did not see good pressure, and the majority of the time I could not get it to start, maybe it was a fluke though, I am not totally sure...
I was going to just get a brass Tee, and run both the old, and the mechanical pressure sender like you have, but I never got around to it.
Hi mike, im considering it cause it looks like they have an small leak, they still have the original ones, i changed the upper intake cause i had a coolant leak, i bought one recomended here, with the redesigned tube "which to be honest i have my doubts they installed it" but it had worked good so far "2 years".
the oil pressure gauge does have all it comes with the copper tube and all the adapters, i didnt find the adapter to have both the sender and the gauge installed, but the conections do are bad full of oil, i indeed used a tester to see the pressure is 35 psi steady, but the "low oil pressure" light come on and off intermitent.
#30
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Sounds like a short in the wiring somewhere, or possibly it is the replacement sender, when mine broke and I replaced it, I went with a non OE AC Delco one, and the resistance for the ground to block of the sender was off, and it was showing the pressure as too low, so when I started it, and when it was idling I'd see the light on, once I replaced the sender the issue disappeared.
The Tee I was talking about is something like this.
or
Actually thinking of how the sender installs, and the routing of the line for the mechanical one will go, this fitting would work better, of course it would need the proper thread sealant.
or
PARKER Street Tee,Brass,3/8 In.,Pipe - Brass Pipe Fittings - 13Y862|VS2225P-6 - Grainger Industrial Supply
The Tee I was talking about is something like this.
Eaton Weatherhead 3600X6 Brass CA360 Fitting, Branch Tee, 3/8"NPT Female x NPT Female x NPT Male: Industrial Pipe Fittings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
or
Eaton Weatherhead 3600X6 Brass CA360 Fitting, Branch Tee, 3/8"NPT Female x NPT Female x NPT Male: Industrial Pipe Fittings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Actually thinking of how the sender installs, and the routing of the line for the mechanical one will go, this fitting would work better, of course it would need the proper thread sealant.
Eaton Weatherhead 3750X6 Brass CA360 Fitting, Street Tee, 3/8" NPT Female x 3/8" NPT Male x 3/8" NPT Female: Industrial Pipe Fittings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
or
PARKER Street Tee,Brass,3/8 In.,Pipe - Brass Pipe Fittings - 13Y862|VS2225P-6 - Grainger Industrial Supply