It always seems I have the most ridiculous ideas.

I removed the seat belt/warning chime module from my '94 Cavalier before I scrapped it. The box is marked with "Rittenhouse Div. Emerson Electric Co." and the part number "22586521" on it. On one end is a single strip of contacts labeled A through P (excluding I and O). The other end has one wire (org/blk) with a plastic connector on it that was not connected to anything in the Cavvie.

I don't know where I found this data, as it was quite some time ago; it might be from my FSM, but I don't know for sure. I labeled the pinout on the casing and this is what I have:

A - +12V
B - Seat Belt Retractor
C - Power Door Lock Relay Control
D - Seat Belt
E- Panel Lights
F - Key-In Ground
G - +12V Ignition
H - Seat Belt Timed
J - Left Front Door
K - Right Front Door
L - Inst. Lamp Dimmer Ground
M - N/C (No connection)
N - Vehicle Speed Sensor Input
P - Ground

The insane idea I had was to retrofit this module into my 1995 Mitsubishi Mighty Max to replace its buzzer (which I've likened to the mating call for a swarm of drunk mosquitoes ). The Mighty Max connections are vastly simpler (no power locks, electric seat belt retractor) but I'm fairly sure I can make it work...

The Mighty Max has two separate modules - The buzzer itself, and the seat belt warning timer relay. Does anyone know if the GM buzzer has the timer circuitry built in? This could make the conversion a lot simpler!

According to the Mighty Max schematic, the seat belt timer relay has an ignition-switched power lead, a lead to power the idiot light, and another lead that passes through the seat belt latch switch (and branches off to the driver doorjamb switch) straight to the buzzer, which then feeds to the ignition switch and through to the main 12v hot-at-all-times fused line.

So my theory is A would go to fused constant 12+, D goes to the seat belt latch switch, E goes to one of the illumination wires, F obviously to the key-in switch, G to fused switched 12v+, H to the idiot light, J will either need constant 12v+ or ground (or I can run a wire from the passenger doorjamb switch), K to my driver doorjamb switch, L to the dash light ground, P to chassis ground.

I'm going out on a limb assuming that the seat belt locking retractor and power door lock functions, with VSS input, can be ignored without any consequence. I can probably find an inexpensive 12VDC inverter IC to convert any positive and negative triggers if need be, I know enough about electronics to do so.

Does anyone have any data on the chime module and can let me know if I'm on the right track? I only have one chime module and don't want to blow it up if I wire things up incorrectly. I know it'll be easier to pop in an older GM chime module, but I like the different tone patterns and after 7 years of hearing that "bong" sound, I kinda like it. Besides, my spare chime from a '91 *-10 was installed in an '85 C-20 we ended up selling. Totally forgot about it!

Of course, I've entertained this plan with other chime modules - the early-90s Nissan pickup mechanical chime (two alternating tones, sounds like "TINK-ull TINK-ull") or the 80s Jetta chime (three ascending notes) but by far I like this Cavalier one the best.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! I want a little GM in my Mitsu!