I bought this car for my daughter from an auction. The battery was dead so I jumped it off to get it on the wrecker. It ran good but needed an oil change as it was 1.5 quarts low. I used 10W30 and changed the oil filter but after the oil change, It became hard to start. It would take 5 minutes of cranking before it would start, but now it will not start. It will hit if I press the accelerator to the floor but will not stay running more than 2 seconds. Here is what I have done:

1). Changed oil/filter. Put 5 quarts per the Haynes manual, but the level is about 1/8 inch above the thatched section.

2). Replaced throttle position sensor.

3). Replaced the MAP sensor.

4). Replaced the Idle Control Valve.

5). Replaced the Air Temperature Sensor.

6). Checked firing of all 4 plugs.

7). Compression is 110 in all 4 cylinders.

. Fuel pressure is 45 but goes to 60 when it runs for the 2 seconds.

9). New full tank of 89 octane fuel.

10). Replaced fuel filter.

11). Disassemble throttle body and cleaned the bypass port, ICV seat, and all of the body, inside and out.

12). Replaced plugs and gapped .45. They are now getting fouled with black soot. I cleaned them with some carb cleaner and a rag.

13). Looked for vacuum leaks and found none.

14). Heater will only blow out the face vents, not the defroster or floor.

15). Bought new battery.

16). Added Lucas fuel treatment.

17). Had Autozone pull codes PO108 and PO172. Both point to a bad MAP sensor, which is why I replaced it.

1. Voltage is 4.7 DCV to all sensors.

My thinking is that the timing chain has jumped and now it is off time. I hope someone here can give some advice on what I can look at, or tell me a way to check the timing without taking the timing covers off.

Thanks in advance,
Randel

Welcome to the forums Randel.
No worries mate, I fixed the Caddy section post for you, happens all the time.
That is a lot of work you have done!
P0108 is MAP high voltage and P0172 is fuel trim rich.
Have your checked the FPR? (fuel pressure regulator) Pull the vacuum hose off and look for any gas that may have been leaking out. See if there is a smell of gas present in lines or at the end of the FPR.
I wonder if you have a bad injector/* causing the rich problem.
I am not sure....did you scan for codes again after all the work was done as above?
I will let our pros / Gearheads have a look at this.
I am sure they may know more about the 2.2 OHC and chime in shortly.

you have fuel and spark, for it to start you need compression and timing. all your compression numbers seem low though i count find a spec listed, seems like a engine like that should be in the neighborhood of 150-170. since they are all low it has to be something common. i think if the timing cam timing was off it could cause that, though i am not real familiar with that setup, everything i work on has a chain that lasts for 300k. if it was me thats where i would look next

Here is what I would do......pull fuel pump fuse......relieve system pressure....crank system over several times.....install new plugs.......crank several times again......now have someone crank while straying carb cleaner into the intake(don't open the throttle body).....if the car starts and runs as long as you spray, then you have a fuel delivery problem....

Did you check the vac line to the f/p reg as suggested for fuel? If ok, and fuel pressure is as you state, could be an injector or PCM problem....

Thank you all for the replies. They are much appreciated.

The codes I listed above were done after all of the work was completed.

I tried the carb cleaner through the throttle body but did not pull the fp fuse, but I will tomorrow.

When I pulled the vacuum line from the fuel regulator, there was a hint of a gas smell so I will replace tomorrow.

There has been a new development. The car is now draining the battery overnight. Also, it will no longer "hit" when I mash the accelerator to the floor. It just spins and spins.

Pressing the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there, is called "clear flood mode"........you do that to try and clear the cylinders/plugs of fuel(injectors do not fire in this mode)......

As I stated, I would replace the plugs, again.....but clear the cylinders by cranking vehicle with no fuel, before replacing....then use carb cleaner to test....

We use to have this Firebird on the lot......it would get started once every couple of weeks....once those plugs were fouled, there was no starting it.....

Sorry i fell off the map. My grandchildren came in for a surprise visit.

I have to say that the fire looked weak on the fouled plugs so today i will replace the fuel pressure regulator and get a new set of plugs, pull the fuel pump fuse, and spray carb cleaner in the throttle body.

Will post after i get these done.

Thanks,
Randel

I changed the fuel pressure regulator, swapped computers, and dried out the cylinders but still no hit so off came the valve cover. The chain was loose but when I cranked the motor, it tightened up. There are only these two markings on the chain (it looks like someone has had it down before due to 3 missing bolts. Does anyone know what these two marks are? I have looked all over the chain and cannot find the "silver" and "copper" links the Haynes manual talk about.

Thanks,
Randel

This is what the top chain looked like before I cranked it.

This is what the chain looked like after I cranked it for 2 seconds. The chain tightened up.