Supertech (Walmart brand!) full synthetic with PurolatorONE filters. 10k drain intervals.

Great info guys, looks like synthetic is okay for high mileage motors. My park ave ultra just hit 160k and has been using conventional for its life. I am planning on changing the oil this weekend and i want to switch to mobil 1 or another good synthetic brand. I am just wondering if an abrupt change to the synthetic will be okay in my 3.8 supercharged. I just plan on doing some modest upgrades like intake, injectors, smaller pulley to increase boost, ect. I just figured the synthetic will be added insurance for me and the park ave.

I have heard that it is important that if I use mobil 1 oil that i use the mobil 1 filter as well, i have also heard that this is not true. Why doesn't anyone use FRAM filters anymore? they used to be the best I thought...

Nothing wrong with an abrupt change. I did it to my 90k SSEi and my 145k Silverado on the same day. They actually both perked right up, the butt dyno was happy.

Fram filters are garbage these days. Any review you look up where they cut the filters open will tell you that. I use PurolatorONE filters because they're cheaper than Wix, but use a better filtering system.

I use Full Synthetic in 10W-30 Mobil1 Or Castrol Edge for the PA.
In the filter department I use the TALL filter in NAPA Gold #1036 (made by WIX?)
And If you want that extra gas mileage and your valves to quiet right down with huge difference in oil temps.. I add a bottle Of : http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-180/LUBE...Oil+Protectant

I still change the oil every 3500 miles period.

even the NAPA ProSelects are WIX built.

At 105k and use castrol full syn 10w40 honestly every engine responds different to oil viscosities, while a lot of old school mechanic deem synthetic oil as unnecessary... keeps the top end lubed at cold start up and luv treating my baby to the best

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

If your car has lived a long time on conventional oils, consider every 2000 miles (for the first 2 synthetic changes) doing the oil & filter. You will find initially the oil gets dirty quickly as the better cleaning properties of Synthetic Oils will pull dirt out quickly.
I remember when I first switched to synthetic in the Park Ave (bought used & it was run on conventional with 88k miles) first thing in the AM before starting, it was quite dirty on the bottom of dip stick (pan oil sediments) at 2000 miles.
The winter flow rate is better with synthetics as well. No carbon in syns as well.
I feel however that synthetics thin out too much when hot, and valve train noise may be apparent then. This is why I use LubeGard bio engine treatment. I can not say enough good things about it as it definately keeps the valve train quiet and smooth.
I recently pulled the valve cover'* to replace the gaskets, and this is with the first synthetic change at 2000 miles.

You can see still some small amount of dirt particles, this will clear over time with synthetics, and more frequent changes.
So if you can find the LubeGard..trust me it is worth the $10 or so...
http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-180/LUBE...Oil+Protectant
(we want the engine to "purr" like a kitten!)

check out rislone oil treatment, one of the miracle cures that actually work used it on both a 94 sentra with a worn timing guide and a 95 bonneville with valve chatter; silenced them both. By all means i recommend fix the problem vs the bandaid approach but a great solution for the lazy DIYers or the mechanic thats too busy fixing other peoples cars(me)

A new industry standard for motor oil has arrived and is called GF5 (ILAC GF-5)
Ensure your oils now meet this standard. Was on shelves Starting Oct 2011.
Good Read: http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...d/viewall.html
Also Read from Lubrizol Site: http://www.gf-5.com/the_story/performance/

castrol GTX and ACDELCO filters

buick lesabre and gmc sierra, just did the sierra today, lesabre is next and then the sunfire.