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Old 02-06-2011, 03:11 PM   #11
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If your stick is saying over full, but the trans is acting like it'* low then I say check the filter. If you don't want to drop the pan right away, then rent a oil pressure tester and check the line pressure. If that'* low then you either have a clogged filter, a bad pump, a leaking channel plate gasket, or something else allowing the pressure to drop.

Also, Steve is the man when it comes to transmissions.
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Old 02-06-2011, 03:12 PM   #12
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Thanks SGP. At what point do you change the filter and gasket and call it done
? Concern: If I remove the pan prior to flushing then I have a new filter and gasket installed. Seems like flushing would highly contaminate a new filter. And it doesn't seem reasonable to drop the pan a second time after the flush and fill.

Also can you verify my foggy brain as to checking tranny fluid. I idle car until water temp reaches maximum (about 10-15 munutes.) Then shift through all gears several times. Then shutoff car for about 10 minutes to allow fluid to drain into pan. Then check dipstick to insure fluid is between marks but not above the upper limit.
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:40 PM   #13
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Check the fluid with the engine warm and running, shifter in Park and on level ground. So if that is how you had checked the fluid, you MAY be low!!

I always drop the pan before I flush on a car that I'm not sure of the transmission'* condition. The gasket is reusable, so don't get a new one.
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:29 PM   #14
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Default So what'* the lastest.....

reading for the breath of suggestions...& little results....

My 2 cents: different issues but same mgf...don't get the same results...

My 1989 LeSabre Custom w/229,505 miles had some issues about 2 years ago. Trans 'thumping' in OD while on the interstate...

Got to destination for a few days layover....after detailed research...dropped the pan...checked for F-n-F w/Rislone trans stabilizer...full shot (32 fl. oz.)...

This was the 2nd application of this process....the 1st was on a 1998 Audi A8 Quattro 4.2 L...(135K miles)...see the audi process on, issues & process...saved the vehicle & a $2K rebuild cost....

The LeSabre F-n-F w/Rislone trns stabilzer saved the weekend long distant get home....maybe 5 'thumps' all the way home (300 miles)...& 2 years later. Save several $hundred...!!!

I performed the same F-n-F procedure on my 1994 Olds Cutlass (147K miles) because of a No-downshift studder after the trans fluid was warmed up...Seemed to work...stopped the studder after about 30 miles of driving.... Save several $hundred...!!!

Well maybe that was 3 cents worth....the F-n-F procedure provide more clues...and a rather cheap shot to possibly fix an expensive trans rebuild or selling the vehicle....

I have now found an additional 'knowledge pool' on poorly designed transmissions....another new vehicle to me is a 1991 Lincoln Town Car "CEO".. Exec. (98,358 miles) Ford used this AOD transmission in late 1989 thru 1992 w/slow & smoooooth shifts...bad design for the automatic...

From several Ford forums I have been very active in using the F-n-F procedure but w/a twist....transmission 'correction or shift kits' fix the problems that FoMoCo did not prevent in the 1st place....

Well how does that help in/with GM'*....they have 'correction and shift kits for GM'* as well..

Look for TransGo or Transmission Exchange Co...w/goggle or 'correction kits....shift kits'...the patent is now other companies are marketing their versions to correct original design flaws by many of the mgf'* like FoMoCo, GM & Chhyyyyssssterrrrr...

The correction kit is for the slow & smooth driver...around $40 again compared to a full rebuild...

The shift kit is for stronger, firmer, quicker shifts...w/power....& not leaving the tranny on the ground..... From $80 to $130...keep

Hope this helps...

More later as I will be doing a F-n-F w/'correction kit' schedule on the 1991 White Ghost when spring breaks.....
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